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James J. Chapman, Publisher, Washington , D. C. 



THE 



Cruise of the Florence; 



OR. 



EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF THE PRE- 
LIMINARY ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 
1877-78. 



EDITED BY 

Captain HaW. Howgate, U. S. A. 






WASHINGTON, D. C. : 

James J. Chapman, Publisher. 
1879. 






mi 



Entered according' to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by 

James J. Chapman, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at "Washington, D. C 



Thomas McGill & Co., 

Printers and Stereotypers, 

Washington, D. C. 



Table of Contents. 



Introductory, - - - - - - - 5 

Part First. 
New London to Cumberland Gulf, ■ - - - 13 

Part ^Second. 
Winter in Cumberland Gulf, ..... 33 

Part Third. 
Annanatook to Disco, - - - - - - 152 

Part Fourth. 
Homeward Bound, ....... 174 



Introductory. 



A number of public spirited and generous citizens of 
the United States, having faith in the success of the colon- 
ization plan as a means of Arctic exploration, and believ- 
ing in its ultimate approval by Congress, in substantial 
accordance with the bill reported favorably from the Com- 
mittee on Naval Affairs of the House of Representatives at 
the last session of the Forty-fourth Congress, contributed 
from their private means a sufficient sum for the purchase 
and outfit of a small vessel to be sent to the Arctic seas 
for the purpose of collecting such supplies during the 
ensuing winter as might be useful for the main expedition 
of 1878, if that expedition should be authorized. It was 
at first intended to limit the mission of this vessel to the 
collection of material only, but the opportunity for scien- 
tific investigation was so inviting, and the added cost in- 
curred thereby so very trifling in comparison with the 
results to be attained, that space was made on board for 
two observers and their necessary apparatus. One of these 
observers was selected upon the recommendation of Pro- 
fessor Elias Loornis, of Yale College, and instructed to pay 
especial attention to meteorological phenomena ; while the 
other was selected as naturalist of the expedition by Pro- 
fessor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, 
from whom he received special instructions. 



6 INTRODUCTORY. 

Captain George E. Tyson, who served on board the 
Polaris with Captain Hall, was intrusted with the task of 
selecting a suitable vessel for the preliminary expedition, 
which, while large enough to accomplish the desired ob- 
jects, would not exceed in cost the sum available for its 
purchase and outfit. After careful examination he selected 
the Florence, of New London, a schooner of fifty-six tons 
burden, which was purchased upon his recommendation, 
and the work of strengthening her for ice navigation at 
once commenced under his personal supervision. It was at 
first hoped to have the vessel ready for sailing on the 25th 
of July, but the illness of Captain Tyson and the preva- 
lence of rainy weather delayed her until the morning of 
August 3, upon which date she sailed with a full crew and 
complete outfit for one year's work, including the neces- 
sary apparatus for a whaling voyage on a small scale, as 
it was proposed that the vessel should bring on her return 
voyage a cargo of bone and oil, and thus make the enter- 
prise. a self-supporting one if possible. 

The public interest evinced in the proposed station with- 
in the Arctic circle has been very gratifying from the first, 
and the fitting out of the preliminary expedition brought 
applications in great numbers, both personal and by letter, 
from parties desirous of accompanying it as members of 
the crew, as passengers, or in any capacity that would 
enable them to share in the prospective perils and honors 
of the enterprise. The number of good men offered was 
so large that it made the task of selection a difficult one, 
but it js believed that no little band better fitted out for 
the work, by strong frames, courage, and endurance, have 



INTRODUCTORY. 7 

ever gone forth to the Arctic seas than those who were 
finally selected and who sailed upon the Florence. 

The Florence was a good sea-boat, staunch, stout, sea- 
worthy, and a fast sailer, and was thoroughly strengthened 
for her encounters with the ice. The supply of provisions 
and other stores for officers and crew was carefully select- 
ed, and with proper economy would have proved ample for 
the voyage. Kind friends from all parts of the country 
contributed from their stores, in addition to articles of 
food and clothing, a liberal supply of books and papers to 
while away the long, weary hours of the sunless Arctic win- 
ter. A spare berth in the forecastle was filled with story- 
books, histories, novels, and volumes of poetry ; a large 
trunk was filled to overflowing with papers, and still another 
was loaded down with magazines ; the whole making a 
library of considerable dimensions. The heads of several 
departments of the Government manifested a kindly inter- 
est in the expedition, not merely by verbal approval, but 
by substantial aid. The different bureaus of the War De- 
partment, acting under the authority of the Secretary of 
War, were particularly active in the matter. The Ord- 
nance Office furnished rifles and muskets and necessary 
ammunition. The Chief Signal Officer of the Army sup- 
plied a complete outfit of necessary instruments for mak- 
ing meteorological observations. The Surgeon - General 
furnished a supply of medicines and the necessary minor 
surgical instruments for use in case of accidents to mem- 
bers of the expedition, and the Quartermaster - General 
furnished tents and camp equipage. The Secretary of the 
Navy furnished a complete outfit of maps, charts, and sail- 



8 INTRODUCTORY. 

ing directions. To these heads of departments and bureaus 
the grateful thanks of the friends of Arctic exploration are 
due for their timely and efficient aid. 

The following instructions, furnished to Captain Tyson 
upon the day of sailing, will give an idea of the aim, objects, 
and scope of this preliminary expedition : 

Washington, July 16, 1877. 
Captain George E. Tyson. 

Commanding: Preliminary Arctic Expedition of 1877, 
New London, Conn. 

Sir: The command of the schooner Florence, of the Prelim- 
inary Arctic Expedition of 1877, is intrusted to you, and the 
officers and men forming the crew are enjoined to render strict 
obedience to your orders. 

In the event of your death while on this expedition — an event 
which is to be devoutly hoped may not occur — the command 
will devolve upon the first mate, and should he also be disabled 
or die, upon the second mate ; and such survivor will carry out 
to the best of his ability the objects of the expedition, keeping 
a stout heart and committing himself and comrades to the care 
of Divine Providence. 

THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION. 

The primary object of the expedition is the collection of ma- 
terial for the use of the future colony on the shores of Lady 
Franklin Bay. This material will consist of Esquimaux to the 
number of ten families, if that number can be obtained of young, 
strong, healthy persons willing to be transferred to the location 
of the future colony; of dogs, not less than twenty-five in num- 
ber, mostly females, and selected for their docility, training, 
strength, and endurance; of sledges,- two in number, and com- 
pletely and carefully fitted up for travel; and of clothing in 
ample quantities to supply fifty persons for three years. The 
clothing will be carefully selected, of choice furs and skins, and 



INTRODUCTORY. 9 

all made up by native women. The secondary object of the 
expedition is the collection of scientific data and specimens, as 
the field is a new one and possessing unusual interest. 

WHALING EN VOYAGE. 

The third, and to the crew most interesting object, is the cap- 
ture of a sufficient amount of bone and oil to make a profitable 
return cargo ; and this part of the work is so completely within 
your own province that I will not venture to give any instruc- 
tions. I must caution you, however, to be on your guard against 
letting the pursuit of gain interfere in any manner with the suc- 
cessful issue of the two first-named objects of the expedition. It 
is from them that the lasting results of the voyage will be ob- 
tained and the interests of science and commerce best subserved. 
The precise locality of your winter quarters is left in a great 
measure to your judgment, but should probably be on the north- 
ern side of Cumberland Island. In making the selection, if the 
state of the weather and condition of the ice leave any choice, the 
locality should be that which is best adapted for the collection of 
supplies, and which offers the best facilities for breaking' out in 
the summer of 1S78 in time to reach Disco by August 1, if possi- 
ble, and certainly not later than August G. 

CARING FOR THE NATIVES AND DOGS. 

Provision must be made for the proper maintenance and care 
of the natives who are to become membehs of the future polar 
colony ; and also of the dogs which are to form so important a 
part of the outfit of that colony. They must be quartered as 
comfortably as the limited accommodations of the schooner will 
permit, fed well, and kept thoroughly clean. 

THE SCIENTISTS. 

The two scientific members of the expedition, while not form- 
ing, strictly speaking, a part of the crew, will, in case of neces- 
sity, be required to perform duty, and will at all times be sub- 
ject to your orders and discipline. Eveiy proper facility will 
be given them in the discharge of their respective duties, and to 



10 INTRODUCTORY. 

t 

aid in securing full and valuable results from their labors. Mr. 
Sherman will have charge of the meteorological instruments, 
observations, and records, and of the photographic apparatus 
and work. In both of these duties it is my wish that you should 
aid him cheerfully and constantly, and in the event of his sick- 
ness, or inability, from any cause, to attend to his observations, 
to make such arrangements as will insure a continuous series 
of the most important ones. The utmost caution must be exer- 
cised in handling the delicate instruments, to guard against their 
breakage or other injury and the consequent interruption of the 
observations. The results of the photographic work will be very 
interesting to the general public as well as to the scientific stu- 
dent, and eveiy opportunity should be taken to secure good 
negatives of places, localities, and objects, and also of the differ- 
ent operations connected with the pursuit and capture of whales, 
seals, &c. Mr. Kumleiii, who goes as the representative of the 
Smithsonian Institution, under the instructions of Professor 
Spencer F. Baird, the distinguished naturalist, for the purpose 
of collecting specimens of the flora and fauna of the country, 
will be accorded the most ample faeilities for the performance 
of his duties consistent with a proper regard for the main object 
of the expedition. His labors, if property supported and reason- 
ably successful, will prove, it is hoped, of lasting advantage, and 
make the expedition a notable one in scientific annals. 

THE EXPEDITION OF 1878. 

On reaching Disco in August, 1878, if the vessel carrying the 
members and outfit of the colony has arrived, you will transfer 
to such vessel the Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and clothing col- 
lected for the purpose, and take the comrtnanding officer's receipt 
for the same. This being done, you will return as rapidly as 
possible to New London, whence you will report by telegraph 
to me at Washington, D. C, for further orders. If the coloni- 
zation vessel has not arrived, you will wait for it until August 15, 
when you will store the sledges and clothing to the care of the 
Governor of Disco : leave the dogs also in his care, and return 



INTRODUCTORY. 11 

the natives to their home on Cumberland Island. This done, 
you will return to ]STe\v London and report, as before, for in- 
structions. 

Should any of your ere w wish to accompany the colonization ves- 
sel, you w T ill grant them permission to do so, with the consent of the 
commander of that expedition, and provided you retain enough 
men to bring the Florence safely back to the United States. 

TEMPERANCE. 

Great care must be exercised in the use of spirituous liquors, 
both among the members of the expedition and in dealing with 
the natives. Useful as liquor undoubtedly is in its place, and 
under suitable restrictions, it is easily capable of the most fright- 
ful abuse, and of leading this expedition to disaster, as it has 
done others in the past, i trust in your strong good sense and 
past experience to guard against danger from this source, and 
desire you to know that I have only permitted a supply in 
quantity of liquors to form part of the Florence's outfit in defer- 
ence to your own strongly-expre*ssed wishes. 

DEALING WITH THE ABORIGINES. 

In dealing with the natives it is my wish, as doubtless it is 
your inclination, that you should be kind and liberal to the 
extent of your means and ability, and in all points of difference, 
should any arise, to be just, but firm. 

FINAL. 

Bear constantly in mind the fact that this is not a whaling- 
voyage, but the first step in a work that will, I trust, when com- 
pleted, be a noteworthy one in the annals of geographical and 
scientific cliscoveiy. This fact should also be carefully impressed 
upon the crew, in order that they ma} 7 work intelligent^ and 
with proper interest. 

Be careful of the health of your men, using such measures for 
the purpose as your long experience in Arctic waters suggests as 
necessaiy. 

In conclusion, I commend yourself and crew to the care of an 



12 INTRODUCTORY. 

All-wise Power, with the prayer that your voyage may be pros- 
perous and your return a safe and happy one. 

H. W. HOWGATE, 

United States Army. 

Sailing from New London on August 3, 1877, the Flor- 
ence reached St. Johns, Newfoundland, on her homeward 
voyage, September 26, 1878. Here she remained, making 
such repairs as had been rendered necessary by the rough 
weather, until the 12th of October, when she sailed for 
home, encountering a succession of storms, during which 
anxious friends mourned for those on board as lost. She 
fortunately rode out the storms in safety, and, after touch- 
ing at Provincetown, Massachusetts, October 26, for sup- 
plies, dropped anchor in New London harbor on the morn- 
ing of the 30th, after an absence of fifteen months. 

Although the voyage was not a profitable one financially, 
owing to the unusual scarcity of whales in Cumberland 
Gulf, in other respects it was satisfactory. 

Clothing was accumulated, dogs purchased, and the serv- 
ices of a sufficient number of the natives secured for the 
proposed station at Lady Franklin Bay, and had Congress 
granted the desired assistance, the Polar mystery would by 
this date have been solved. 

The following extracts from Captain Tyson's official jour- 
nal are published, to complete in detail the record of the 
expedition. 

The scientific results of the voyage will be soon given to 
the public. The report of the naturalist is now running 
through the press, while that of the meteorologist is nearly 
ready for the printer. 



The Cruise of the Florence 



fart Jtrjst. 

|(ew London to Pumberland puLF. 

• 
In the spring of 1877, nearly five years after my 

return from the Polaris Expedition, Captain H. W. 
Howgate, of the United States Army, conceived the 
plan of forming a colony in the Arctic regions for 
scientific observations, and also for the purpose of 
reaching the North Pole, if possible. With this end 
in view, he had many consultations with me and oth- 
ers relative to the subject and the best mode of car- 
rying it to a successful termination. It was finally 
settled that he would either . charter or purchase a 
small vessel, to proceed to Cumberland Gulf, or else- 
where, to procure Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and all 
the skins and skin-clothing that it was possible to ac- 
cumulate. The Esquimaux men were to be the dog- 
drivers and the hunters of the expedition ; the women 
were to be the boot-makers and the tailors. The em- 
ployment of the women was decided upon in view of 
the fact that it would be impossible, or very difficult, 
to induce the men to leave their native mountains 



14 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

without their wives and children. The preliminary 
expedition was to sail one year previous to the grand 
expedition, which it was supposed would start in the 
spring of 1878. It — the preliminary — was to winter 
in Cumberland Gulf, or elsewhere, where Esquimaux 
and the above-mentioned articles could be found and 
secured.* In the spring of 1878, the vessel, on being 
relieved from her winter quarters, was to proceed di- 
rect to Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland, meet 
the main expedition at that island, transfer whatever 
had been collected, and return home. 

Everything being settled as to the future of the ex- 
pedition, should Captain Howgate succeed in starting 
one, a subscription list was opened in New York and 
elsewhere, and the desired amount was soon collected, 
and I was dispatched to procure a suitable vessel for 
the purpose. I arrived in New London, Connecticut, 
in the latter part of June, and there found the schoon- 
er Florence, belonging to Messrs. Williams & Haven. 
The Florence had recently arrived from a whaling voy- 
age around Cape Horn, and the firm was desirous of 
selling her, as she was too small for its business. I 
thought she would answer the desired purpose, and 
the vessel was finally purchased for the sum of $4,000. 
Mr. Williams generously gave $200 toward the enter- 
prise. It was getting late in the season, and it was 
necessary to make all possible haste in preparing the 
vessel for sea and for sailing in the ice-ridden waters 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 15 

of Davis's Strait. This was accomplished by the 2d of 
August,- and with a "Farewell!" and a "God bless 
you! 5 ' to our loved ones, we sailed from New London 
harbor, to be gone probably fourteen months. The 
crew consisted of the following named persons : 

George E. Tyson, of New Jersey, master. 

William Sisson, of Connecticut, first officer. 

Deuison Burrows, of Connecticut, second officer. 

Eleazor Cone, of Connecticut, steward. 

Richard B. York, of Connecticut, seaman. 

William A. Albion, of Connecticut, seaman. 

James W. Lee, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. 

Joel B. Butler, of Connecticut, seaman. 

Charles II. Fuller, of Connecticut, green hand. 

David T. Reese, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. 

John McPartland, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. 

The passengers and scientists were Orray Taft Sher- 
man and Ludwio; Kumlein. 

The morning we sailed the wind was to the east- 
ward, but we managed to fetch out of the harbor on 
the port tack, and also through the race. We were 
accompanied by quite a number of friends and ac- 
quaintances, and also by the steam-tug Wellington, Cap- 
tain Waterman, who was to take our temporary pas- 
sengers back. My little boy also accompanied me; 
but soon the' motion of the schooner made him sea- 
sick. I attempted to console him, but he requested 
me not to talk to him, with the remark that I ought 



16 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

to know how it was myself. On getting well through 
the race, and our friends now growing rather noisy, I 
hailed the tug, and, heaving the schooner to, Captain 
Waterman came alongside, and our friends, bidding 
us God-speed and a safe return, left us. Man is sel- 
dom or never contented. I must say I envied them. 
They were going back to their friends and loved ones, 
while I was going from them. 

The wind was still to the eastward, so we kept beat- 
ing to windward through the clay. The ebb-tide swept 
us out so that by midnight we were well clear of Mon- 
tauk Point, the eastern point of Long Island. 

Nothing of note occurred until the 8th of August, 
when we sighted Sambro Light. It was comparative- 
ly calm and somewhat foggy. Occasionally the mist 
would lift, displaying to our view the rock -bound 
coast of Nova Scotia, with its bold headlands, its farm 
cottages, and the light-house, which looks like some 
grim giant standing sentinel. It was my intention to 
go through the straits of Belle Isle, to shorten, if pos- 
sible, the passage north. This would cut off some three 
hundred miles, and I was in a hurry, as it was late in 
the summer, and we should at that date have been 
at our destination. We continued beating along the 
coast, the wind remaining in the eastern quarter, — 
now strong, then light; and it was nearly all the time 
foggy. The vessel was kept close in with the land, — 
so close, indeed, that the breakers were seldom out of 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 17 

hearing. I hoped in doing this to get a breeze from 
the land. 

On the 12th of August it was still foggy, though lift- 
ing occasionally. At 10.30 a. m. we passed the island 
(or, rather, rocks) of Scutari, the eastern end of the 
coast of Nova Scotia, and entered the Gulf of St. Law- 
rence. From the 12th to the 14th we had light east- 
erly wind and fog. The fog lifting on the 14th, we 
sighted the island of St. Paul, and in the afternoon the 
island of Newfoundland. The wind still remaining 
ahead, we had a dead beat of it. On the 16th the 
wind blew strong and the weather was thick. The 
schooner was brought down to close-reefed mainsail 
and foresail, with bonnet of jib. As if to make the 
weather more uncomfortable, it rained in torrents, but 
without abating the wind. 

On Sunday, August 19th, the wind died away, but 
left us the fog and rain. The schooner was very deep, 
and anything but comfortable in heavy weather, though 
she acted nobly throughout. As the straits were not 
altogether free from danger, I hauled up and bent the 
larboard chain. I hoped it would not be needed, but 
it was just possible that it might. The straits of Belle 
Isle are not the most pleasant place in which to get on 
shore. The wind continuing from the south and east, 
we made but slow progress. On the 29th the fog 
lifted for a few minutes, and we found ourselves in 
the narrows of the straits, with a large bark in com- 
2 



18 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

party. Being anxious to send word home, I watched 
my opportunity, and, in spite of the fog, luffed close 
ahead of the bark, dropped a boat and sent letters on 
board. She was bound to Europe, and had been eight- 
een days endeavoring to get out of the straits, but 
could not on account of fog and head -winds. The 
second mate, whom I sent on board with the letters, 
did not ask her name, so I am unable 1o give it. 

On the return of the boat we bore up again. The 
wind was light and variable, and the fog, if anything;, 
more dense than ever. Now and then it would light 
up, disclosing to our view the shore, the huts of the 
fishermen, and their small craft moored along the 
shore. Occasionally the fog would roll over us, en- 
veloping us in its disagreeable, wet, and sombre man- 
tle, and then the fog-horns would send forth their son- 
orous sounds from the surrounding vessels, the small 
craft joining in the chorus. In this manner we kept 
along, our own fog-horn continually going. 

On the 22d we sighted the Belle Isles, — Big Belle 
and Little Belle. I wished to land on one or both of 
the islands; but being some distance from them, and 
as, it miffht cause a Ions: delay, if not worse conse- 
quences, I decided not to do so. Towards evening a 
breeze sprung up from the south-w T est, with rain. ¥e 
now stood out, between Great Belle and Little Belle, 
into the North Atlantic Ocean. The wind soon in- 
creased to a gale and brought us down to storm-sails. 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 19 

The next day it was still blowing, but from the north- 
east. Toward evening, however, it moderated, and 
hauled to the south-east ; and so it continued, — light 
breeze from the south-east, with thick fog and heavy 
swell; then light breeze from the north-east, thick fog 
and heavy swell. In fact, we had light breezes from 
every point of the compass, scarcely ever clear of fog, 
and all the time a heavy swell. The atmosphere light- 
ed up several times, hoAvever, and we could then see 
the land, — the coast of Labrador, — which was not far 
off. It seldom remained clear for more than an hour 
at a time. We seemed to carry the fog with us, — calm 
and fog, light wind and fog, and heavy swell all the 
time ; so heavy, in fact, that to save the schooner's 
sails I lowered them and tied them up, to keep them 
from slating off her. This weather lasted till the 2d 
of September, with nothing to break the monotony 
except the sight of two icebergs. On the 2d we sight- 
ed Eesolution Island. The w T ind gave us a slant along 
the coast. We stood across the mouth of Frobisher's 
Straits. I intended to enter Coddin°; Bav, and to sail 
thence to New-gum-eute, to trade for skins, and, if 
possible, to get some Esquimaux ; but my hopes were 
premature. Again the fog shut down thicker than 
ever. In fact, we had groped our way in the dark 
from iNew London to Frobisher's Straits, and were yet 
in the darkness. Here we were, right in among the isl- 
and reefs, which lie some forty miles off the mainland^ 



20 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

with strong currents and bergs without number, a very 
heavy swell which we could hear around us, and were 
yet uncertain whether it was caused by the rocks or 
bergs. Hauling the jib to the mast, — for there was a 
light breeze from the south-east, — we lay quiet all 
night, except now and then keeping off for a supposed 
berg or an island. It was too dense to distinguish 
which, so we went by the sound of the breakers and 
avoided both. 

The weather continuing bad, we finally determined, 
as it was getting late, to run for the Gulf of Cumber- 
land, and bore up on the 4th. Shortly after, hearing 
breakers close aboard and directly ahead, held off and 
passed near to several large bergs, against which the 
surf was breaking furiously. 

After clearing these mountains of ice we stood along 
for some time, when breakers were again heard. This 
time something besides ice was in the way. It proved 
to be one of the many islands in that vicinity. About 
the same time we sighted the island we discovered 
a large berg directly to windward and close to, — so 
close that I could have thrown a biscuit to it. It was 
not safe to put the helm down and go in stays, for the 
schooner would have gone directly into the berg, and 
the island was close under our lee, its perpendicular 
side dashing the spray high into the air. There was a 
good breeze, and we were on the wind. We could 
neither luff nor keep off, but must go between the berg 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 21 

and the island ; and this we did. The little schooner 
shot through like a thing endowed with life, and in an 
instant, almost, the berg and island were hidden from 
view in the fog. Just previous to this we kept off to 
clear what we thought to be bergs ; but on getting to 
leeward of them the fog lifted a very little and dis- 
closed to us two islands within a stone's-throw. 

I now tried to think where we were, and came to 
the conclusion that we were off the southernmost cape 
of the entrance to the gulf. 

On the 5th the wind was strong from the north-east, 
with rain and a heavy sea. We sighted land and 
tacked close to it. The fog was too thick to permit 
me to make out the locality. Towards evening the 
wind backed to the north and blew strongly, which 
brought us down under close -reefed sails. 

On the 6th the wind was very strong from the north 
and west. We could see the land, and ascertained 
our position. We were in the mouth of the gulf. 

The north-west wind was extremely cold. We had 
warm east and south-east winds up to this date, and 
therefore felt the cold severely. 

The gale lasted until the 8th, when it moderated. 
Towards evening a light breeze sprung up from the 
south-east, and rain commenced falling. We were 
now off Kuk-e-hryer Island, about twenty miles below 
J^iantilic Harbor. Towards evening the rain ceased 
and the wind shifted to the north-west, and soon in- 



22 THE CEUISE OF THE FLOKENCE. 

creased to a heavy gale. The schooner was put under 
storm-sails, and began drifting out into the gulf. The 
gale was fearful through the night and the sea ran 
very high, and, to add terror to our situation, the 
night was most intensely dark. At 3 o'clock on the 
morning of the 10th, when the gale was at its height 
and the sea running heavily, I found it necessary to 
wear around on the other tack. 

There was danger in such a storm and in such a sea, 
but it must be done. All the sail the schooner was 
able to carry was a close-reefed foresail, to keep her 
from rolling to windward, of which there was great 
danger. 

There was another danger, greater than all the rest, 
which none but myself knew. This was, of drifting 
upon Wareman's Island, rising some two thousand 
feet above the sea, and close under our lee. All hands 
were called and everything made ready. The helm 
was put hard-up, and in an instant her head payed oft*. 
She lay deep in the swell, her lee rail and half of the 
deck being under water; in fact, for an instant she 
appeared to be on her beam ends. She obeyed her 
helm admirably at this critical juncture, and as her 
head payed off a little more, the pressure on her be- 
came less, she righted, and, shaking herself like some 
huge water-dog, bounded off before the wind. 

Watching my opportunity, I brought her safely to 
on the other tack, and she rode out the gale. In the 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 23 

morning the wind moderated, but at sunrise it was 
still blowing strongly. The 11th brought no better 
weather, until along towards evening, when the wind 
died away, with occasional snow T -squalls, and we passed 
a comfortable night. 

The damages by the gale may be summed up as fol- 
lows: One boat stove in; one steering oar and one 
barrel of onions swept overboard ; and a good scare 
for all hands. 

Shortly after sunrise, on the 12th, the wind com- 
menced to blow from the south-east. We were then 
about thirty miles below Kuk-e-luyer Island, having 
drifted about thirty miles in the gale. Making all 
sail, we ran off before the wind, and at 3 o'clock that 
afternoon were safely anchored in Niantilic Harbor. 

At Niantilic we found the brig Alert, Captain Wat- 
son, of Peterhead, Scotland, and. the bark Polar Star, of 
the same place. Parties from these vessels soon came 
on board and gave us the news. The steamer Exan- 
the, Captain Simon, and the steamer Windward, Cap- 
tain Murray, had been in the gulf; but as soon as the 
whaling was over had sailed for ^"ew-gum-eute, tak- 
ing with them most of the Esquimaux. This was bad 
news for us, as most of the skins worth purchasing 
must certainly have been taken by these vessels. They 
had also carried away the natives whom we had hoped 
to get. The Perseverance, Captain Brown, was at 
Kickerton Island, on the other side of the gulf. They 



24 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

expected him over in a few clays, and that he would 
winter here. 

Murray, with his steamer, was coming back in the 
fall,*and he, too, was going to winter here. This was 
a damper to all my hopes. What with four vessels 
wintering here, all with large crews, and two steamers 
at Kickerton Island with more men, who must all have 
skin-clothing, and with plenty of truck or material to 
trade for it, my chances were very poor of getting 
skin-clothing and Esquimaux sufficient to satisfy those 
who intrusted me with the command of the vessel for 
that very purpose. It was too late* to leave the gulf 
and seek a more favorable place, so I concluded to 
stay and do the best I could. The natives were off 
deer-hunting, and there were only two families left on 
shore, those of old Tes-e-wane and another, both crip- 
ples. Old Tes-e-wane has been a very useful man here- 
tofore, but has recently been disabled by the premature 
discharge of his gun. 

While awaiting the return of the Esquimaux we re- 
paired our boat and the foresail which had been clam- 
aged in the late gale. The weather at Mantilic on 
the nights of the 10th and 11th was described as ter- 
rific. The vessels Alert and Polar Star dragged their 
anchors, although they held them down with a hun- 
dred fathoms of chain out. Old Tes-e-wane said it 
was the strongest wind he had ever seen in his life. 

On the 14th the Scotch bark Perseverance arrived 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. ZZ> 

Light north and west winds and snow-squalls prevail. 
All hands were actively employed preparing boats for 
whaling. At the earnest solicitation of Mr. Sherman, 
we pot up a tent on what we call " Arctic Island," so 
that he would be able to take scientific observations, 
winch he was most eager to do. We had rain and we 
had snow ; then hail, and occasionally sunshine. Mr. 
Kumlein employed his time shooting birds and collect- 
ing other material on the shores and along the shore 
at low water. September was drawing to a close, and 
no natives yet. 

September 27. — Some of the Esquimaux arrived 
yesterday evening, but went directly to* the Scotch 
ships, the master having engaged them previous to 
their starting on the hunting expedition. This morning, 
after breakfast, we were surprised at seeing a number 
of boats filled with Esquimaux, men, women, and chil- 
dren, with a goodly mixture of dogs, rotten skins, rotten 
fish, &c, coming toward the schooner. They were soon 
alongside and- over the rail on deck. What a motley- 
looking set ! Their skins were strangely spotted, but 
with what it was difficult to determine ; probably grease 
and dirt. Here and there we could see, through the 
dirt and grease, or between the spots, their dark-brown 
skins. Many of them had sore eyes, and all were very 
dirty. They had been off in the mountains for two 
months, and had had no opportunity to wash. Soap 



26 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

is not manufactured among the Esquimaux, so that 
those who are not convenient to the shipping stations 
come into the world and go out of it without knowing 
the luxury of a wash ! They had come on board to pay 
me a complimentary visit, so it was necessary to enter- 
tain them. The cabin was soon crowded, and not only 
the cabin, but the cabin steps, the companion-wa^y, and 
the after-part of the deck, — all apparently eager to get 
one word or look from an old acquaintance, or mayhap 
to get a little lire-water or a piece of tobacco. Some 
of them I knew years ago, in 1851 and 1852, the first 
time white men ever ventured to winter in Cumberland 
Gulf. They were old men and old women now, and 
there are only a few of them left. Many of my old 
acquaintances had gone to the happy hunting-grounds, 
where the deer and seals are more plentiful and the 
weather not so cold. They all appeared happy to see me 
once more among them; but it soon became unpleas- 
ant, to me, at least. What with the screeching of young 
ones which many of the women had in their hoods on 
their backs, the barking and howling of their dogs in 
the boats alongside, and the continued clatter of the 
tongues of all, — men, women, and half- grown chil- 
dren, — I concluded to get rid of them as soon as possi- 
ble. So, hauling out the bottle, I gave each a dram, 
and then sent him or her on deck to make room for 
the others, who were eager to get below. It took sev- 
era! hours to get rid of them, but before doing so I 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 27 

purchased some skins and obtained the promise of 
more ; but it was very evident to me that the Scotch 
whaler had got nearly their whole stock. 

On the 29th two more boats arrived. One went 
directly to the Scotchmen ; the other came alongside 
the schooner. I looked over the side to see if it 
was anybochy I knew, and beheld Tyson. This mnst 
not startle the reader. I will explain after a time. 
And there was Mrs. Tyson, too, as beautiful and as 
dirty as ever. And there were also two little Tysons, — 
not genuine, though, but adopted. This Tyson is 
about forty-live or forty-eight years of age. When 
the ships first commenced to winter in the gulf, some 
twenty-live years ago, the captains who hired the Es- 
quimaux — and they all did so — finding it difficult to 
recollect their native cognomens, would give them 
English names; as, Tom, Charley, Dick, or Harry, 
and others, again, which were not quite so euphonious 
to the ear. This youngster, whose real name was Nep- 
e-ken, was baptized Tyson ; I know not for what 
reason, unless it w T as because he was so handsome! 
He is a great hunter, — the Nimrocl of the gulf; and 
he is also considered a good whaleman, and American 
ships coming here for that purpose endeavor to secure 
his services. His wife, too, is s;ood with the rifie and 
the spear. She will kill her deer, catch her seal, or 
face the polar bear. Nep-e-ken came on board, and 



28 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

I soon made arrangements with him to stop with me 
through the winter. Of course his boat's-crew will do 
as he tells them. From these natives I got some more 
skins and made preparations to start for the head of 
the gulf. The natives are to go with me. We got 
under way on the morning of the 1st of October. It 
was calm in the harbor, but I expected to get a breeze 
outside. Putting the natives' boat ahead to tow while 
we were securing the anchors, we were soon outside 
the point of Niantilic Island, when we caught a nice 
breeze from the south-east which carried the schooner 
along six or seven knots an hour. It was my inten- 
tion to cross the gulf to the Kickerton Islands, to 
deliver three boxes sent to Captain John Roach, of 
the schooner Helen F., at Kickerton station, but the 
Helen F. was gone. The fall before, after getting 
snugly stored into winter quarters, as the captain 
thought, there came a gale of wind from the south- 
east, with snow, which lasted several days, and before 
it abated it carried the harbor ice out, and with it the 
schooner, but not the anchors or the chains, which 
were left behind on the bottom, the latter having 
parted. The vessel, drifted up and down the gulf sev- 
eral days, and her captain was finally compelled to 
run her on the rocks to save life. He was very glad 
to have an opportunity to do that, as it was in Novem- 
ber, and one strong northwester w T ould have decided 
his fate and that of all hands. 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 2D 

Our fair wind from the south did not last long. We 
soon had snow, and then the wind hauled to the north, 
right ahead. This was not very pleasant, as I had 
hoped to reach Kiekerton Islands and be sheltered by 
their friendly harbor by night. The schooner was 
very deep, her decks being scarcely above the water. 
We had an extra cargo on board, consisting of Esqui- 
maux, men, women, and children, and all their house- 
hold goods, including sleighs, clogs, and a whale-boat 
which had been given to Nep-e-ken for his services 
on board the American brig Isabella, Captain Keeny, 
the previous year. 

As the wind increased the sea rose slightly, but it 
was not heavy. The schooner sat so deep, however, 
that considerable water washed across her decks. An 
Esquimaux has a horror of water. He thinks it should 
only be used for drinking purposes. So to escape from 
the water, which was by no means pleasant to feel on 
the legs or running down the back, as it was nearly as 
cold as ice, some went to the forecastle among the men, 
and others took possession of the cabin. In fact, upon- 
going below I found one old woman — at least sixty, 
and cross-eyed — in my berth. I let her remain there 
and sought quarters elsewhere. 

We did not get to the promised harbor that night, 
as I have before intimated, but kept beating to wind- 
ward, in the hope of getting in the next morning. It 
was very dark, and we had a good strong breeze, which 



30 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

brought us down to reefed sails. In the mo miner we 
were to windward of and close to the harbor, and 
shortly after came to an anchorage abreast of the 
houses that comprise the station — one Scotch and 
the other American, the latter belonging to Messrs'. 
Williams & Haven, of ]\ T ew London, Conn. We had 
scarcely let go the anchor when Captain Roach and 
Captain Hall were on board. I delivered the three 
boxes to Captain Roach. They were sent out by Mr. 
Williams, and their contents proved to be ammuni- 
tion, which was very much needed. I was now free to 
go north to the head of the gulf, which was my inten- 
tion when leaving Niantilic Harbor. It would not do 
for me to winter among so many ships the masters of 
which knew the object I had in view, and as they wish- 
ed to retain the Esquimaux in the gulf to assist them 
in their whaling expeditions, they would use all their 
influence to prevent them from joining me in the pro- 
posed migration to the East Land. 

There was another reason for my proceeding north : 
I' hoped to get more skins at the head of the gulf than 
could be obtained below. 

It would debar me from spring whaling, but I was 
after something besides whales. I took the precau- 
tion to leave a large quantity of "trade" with Tes-e- 
wane at Niantilic, he promising to purchase all the 
skins he could. We remained at the Kickerton Isl- 
ands awaiting an opportunity to run up to the head 



NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 31 

i 

of the gulf — or the "Aunanatook Harbor, 5 ' as the 
Esquimaux call it — until the 7th of October. 

Previous to this we had chiefly north and north-west 
winds, with snow. On the morning of the 7th the wind 
was south-east, and it was quite clear. 

The south-east wind is almost sure to bring snow 
with it; but it is only sixty miles to Aunanatook," and 
I hoped to get there before the storm. Therefore, as 
soon as breakfast was over we get under way, leaving 
Kickerton at nine o'clock. On getting clear of the 
harbor, the breeze was found quite strong. We were 
making good headway, running off before the wind 
with all sails set. As we got further along the wind 
increased. There was a harbor under my lee, and at 
the rate we were going — ten or eleven knots — we 
must soon be there. 

We had the same cargo on board, and had we been 
compelled to luff to I fear the Esquimaux would have 
lost most of their household goods; but fortunately 
this was not necessary. The little schooner bounded 
over the water with great rapidity, and soon the har- 
bor was in sight. The shores at the head of the gulf 
are quite low, with many outlying reefs and islands, 
and over these the sea was breaking with fearful force, 
sending spray high into the air. 

Such was the motion of the waters, that it was some 
time before I could make out the entrance to the har- 
bor. 



32 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

We took in all of our light sails as we drew close to 
the entrance, and, keeping the schooner off a little to 
clear a point of rocks which projected from the island 
under which I intended to anchor, luffed close around 
under the land, and was in smooth water. We let 
go the anchor in twelve fathoms, and were as com- 
fortahle as we could be. We made the distance from 
the Kickerton Islands to Annanatook in six hours. 



Winter in Pumberland pULF. 

October 8. — We are now anchored in Annanatook 
Harbor, where I intend to winter if God spares my life. 
There we found three families of Esquimaux : O-ca- 
ter and wife; Kuck-oo-jug and wife, and two children ; 
Eg-e-low, single, (wife dead,) and one son ; Inue-mar- 
ket, married to l^ep-e-ken's sister, and the venerable 
Metek, whom I had nearly forgotten. Metek is Esqui- 
maux for " egg." The old man must be well along 
in years. Twenty-six years ago he was an old man, 
and yet I can see but little change in him. 

"We soon cleared the decks of all the rubbish, Esqui- 
maux and all. This place has been, and is yet suppos- 
ed to be, an excellent one for whaling in the fall season ; 
but few ships stay here late in the year for fear of be- 
ing frozen in and thus losing their spring whaling, as 
the water would then probably be sixty or eighty miles 
below them. 

A lookout has been placed on the island. The mim 
performing this service are furnished a spy-glass, and 
are relieved every two hours. We have also located 
Mr. Sherman on shore again, and now I hope he will 
be able to continue his meteorological observations 
without further interruption. 
3 



84 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

On Friday, October 12, the Scotch bark Perseverance 
came in and anchored, having seen no whales at M- 
antilic. The other two vessels are still at Niantilic. 
The Perseverance reports that a large steamer, that had 
been north whaling in Davis's Straits, canfe into the 
harbor a few days ago, but did not intend to stay long, 
and was bound home to Scotland. Captain Birnie, of 
the Polar Star, will send my letters by her. 

We have had some snow, but none of any conse- 
quence; some good strong wind, but no heavy gales. 
They are having different weather below— more gales 
and more snow. 

On the 15th of October Captain Roach arrived with 
two boats'-crews, looking for whale. His other crews 
were left encamped near American Harbor, about 
thirty miles from here in an easterly direction. He 
staid with me two days and then left to join his other 
boats. 

On the 18th, Captain Brow.n, of the Perseverance, got 
his vessel under way and left us for Mantilic, so we are 
now alone in our winter quarters. The Esquimaux 
report having seen smoke in the direction of American 
Harbor, I suppose it to be Murray, with the Wind- 
ward. 

On the 22d we were visited by three of Murray's 
boats from American Harbor. They were all looking 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 35 

eagerly for whale, but had seen none. They reported 
that Captain Roach's boats, in his absence, got a large 
whale; also that Captain Watson, of the brig Alert, 
lying at Mantilic, had captured one. Captain Hall, 
from the Kickerton Islands, has also been here with 
three boats. 

The lookout on the island signalled a whale on the 
24th. The boats were instantly out, but it was not 
seen again. Every clay when the weather would 
permit the natives were off sealing, and at the same 
time looking for whale, but up to this date in vain. 
I should not care so much about not seeing or not 
getting whales, — although I should like to get enough 
to pay expenses, — if we could do anything else at this 
season of the year. This is the dry season. The na- 
tives have given up hunting deer and are returning to 
the sea-side preparatory to entering upon their winter 
campaign against the seals. The women are idle. 
They will not work on deer-skins until the ice makes ; 
but they will work on seal-skins. Like all uncivil- 
ized people, they are very superstitious, and they fear 
if they work on deer-skins (took-too) out of the proper 
season they or their friends will be unfortunate, per- 
haps die; so one must wait until the ioe makes solid 
before they will consent to make a suit of clothes, 
though one be suffering for them. 

Nep-e-ken and Kuck-oo-jug are off every day with 



30 THE CKUISE OF THE FLORENCE, 

the boats. Nep-e-ken's boat is prepared for whaling. 
Kuck-oo-jug, whom I have not employed, goes in his 
own boat. It is rather an old one, to be sure, but 
it will do for sealing. They generally keep within 
sight of one another, so that if JNep-e-ken should see 
whales and strike them Kuck-oo-jug could render him 
assistance. They carry their rifles with them, so that 
if they see no whales they can amuse themselves shoot- 
ing seals, and they generally bring in two or three of 
the latter to the schooner in the evening. My own 
men I seldom send off. Indeed, I will not unless they 
signal from the shore that a whale is in sight. My 
men are as yet too poorly clad to remain a long time 
in the boats in such cold weather as now prevails. 
The Esquimaux tell me that last fall there were plenty 
of whales within rifle-shot of where the schooner now 
lies. In fact, I know T that nearly every fall the whales 
have been here in abundance. 

It may be that they have met feed lower down the 
gulf and have stopped there. 

On the 29th of October Nep-e-ken came to me and 
requested me to get the Esquimaux to "ankoot" for 
whale, saying if I would do so, and pay the ankoot, 
they would ascertain whether w r e were to get a whale 
or not. Of course I knew that the Esquimaux believ- 
ed in their ankoot as implicitly as we believe in our 
doctors, or those who expound the Bible to us ; and 



WINTER IX CUMBERLAND GULF. 37 

I humored them accordingly. ^Tep-e-ken delicately 
hinted to me that as a preliminary to this grand calling 
up of spirits from the vasty deep, it would be necessary 
for me to furnish them with some spirits to pour down 
their own capacious and well-lined throats. At this I 
did not demur, but gave them the " needful," and all 
was made ready to summon the supernatural that 
evening. I did not £0 on shore to witness the sum- 
moning, as the spirits become offended if an unbe- 
liever be present, but of course was anxious as to the 
results. Kuck-oo-jug was to be the ankoot. They 
kept it up till early morning, and at breakfast I learn- 
ed the result. We were to get a whale, but the spirits 
would not inform -Kuck-oo-jug whether it would be 
this fall or next spring. I made him a present of a 
large knife. He smiled, and, examining the knife, 
turned to Nep-e-ken and said to him, in Esquimaux : 
fc < Now we will have a whale." 

On the last day of October, although it was late in 
the season and dangerous to be out at that time in the 
year, we weighed anchor early in the morning, with 
the native boats' -crews aboard, some of them with 
ankoot charms hanging about their persons, and stood 
out in the ffulf looking for whale ; but we looked in 
vain. In the afternoon, the wind blowing strong in 
the north-east, Ave reached the harbor just at dark. The 
days are very short now. 



38 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

The natives still prosecute sealing every favorable 
day. They shot one oog-jook, good for boots. 

On the 7th of November Nep-e-ken and Kuck-oo-jug 
were off, as usual. Kuck-oo-jug soon returned and 
informed me that he had seen a whale ; that it was 
close to his boat, but he had no line, nor was he pre- 
pared in any way for whaling. I had not hired him, 
as I was afraid the stores would not permit me to feed 
so many Esquimaux through the winter. I asked 
where Nep-e-ken was, and learned that he could see 
his boat when he started for the schooner, but did 
not know whether he saw the whale or not. The 
lookout had seen nothing from the hill. 

The whales are here, but it is very late. The ice 
will soon form, as it seldom remains open as late as 
the 7th of November. It is now forming near the 
shores, and it will take but one night of calm weather 
to cover the whole e;ulf with it. The lookout signal- 
led that a boat was coming. It proved to be Nep-e- 
ken, and he was soon alongside. The first words he 
uttered were, " Ogbig ! ogbig! Asseawouk! asseawo- 
uk ! " Which means, " Whale ! whale ! Lost ! lost ! " 
He had seen a whale and struck it. It was a large 
one. The whale took some twenty -five fathoms of 
line, and then the line parted. This was bad news, 
yet it might have been worse. 

It was a daring act to strike a whale all alone and 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 39 

at this time of the year. The days are short, and it 
was then growing dark, so I made preparations to send 
two boats off in the morning. For this purpose all the 
skin-clothing was collected and given to three men of 
the forecastle, who were to make up the complement 
of two boats'-crews with the Esquimaux, who were not 
numerous enough to man two boats. They were pro- 
visioned for two or three days, although I scarcely 
thought they would be gone over night. Kuck-oo-jug 
was to take the natives' boat, while Nep-o-ken was to 
use his own. 

They were off at daybreak. The weather was fine, 
but cold, with a good breeze from the north. When 
some six miles off' they were seen to take in their sails. 
They had either seen or struck a whale. Shortly after- 
wards the)' disappeared from sight. 

The day passed away and night came on. It was 
cold, and the wind blew from the north. They did 
not. come. 

On the morning of the 9th the horizon was eagerly 
scanned for the boats. "ISTo boats in si^ht ! " All 
that da} 7 a sharp lookout was kept, but no boats ap- 
peared. Night came. The thermometer registered 
minus 16°. The wind blew heavily from the north- 
west. 

The morning of the 10th was very cold, but there 
was not so much wind. The harbor was frozen over 



40 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

and some of the Esquimaux children came to the 
schooner upon the ice. 

The squaws and children were very anxious about 
their husbands and relatives. We could see but little 
to-day. Although the water is frozen in the harbor, 
it is open outside. As fast as the ice forms it is car- 
ried away by the wind and currents. The steam or 
frost arising from the water forms a dense fog. No 
boats. Night came, cold and cheerless for those adrift 
in the boats, who must, by this time, be out of provis- 
ions. It seems certain that they have struck a whale, 
and the wind being strong from the north-west, they 
have had to go before it, and will bring up some thirty 
or forty miles down the gulf, — probably at American 
Harbor. 

November 11. — No boats. It is very cold. The 
wind is from the north. The gulf is still open outside 
of the harbor, but that frost-smoke which shuts out 
all view beyond a few yards prevails. The schooner 
is in some danger, the wind being strong. I fear the 
ice in the harbor will move and carry her outside 
with it. 

November 12. — No boats. The weather continues 
about the same, — cold, and a breeze not very strong, 
and plenty of frost-smoke. The women and children 
are getting almost inconsolable over the loss of their 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 41 

husbands, fathers; and relatives. God grant them a 
safe return, is my earnest prayer. About 8.30 p. m., 
as I was sitting in the cabin, smoking a pipe and wish- 
ing the lost or absent ones back safe and sound, we 
were all startled by a hail alongside. Springing on 
deck, I discovered the boats. They were some dis- 
tance astern, to be sure, but they were safe. They 
could not get nearer on account of the ice. A line 
was soon conveved to them, and by haulms; on it from 
the schooner, the natives lifting the heads of the boats 
at times when thev broke through the young ice, we 
soon had them alongside and hoisted them aboard. 
They were sorry-looking boats, almost entirely covered 
with ice, and considerably battered; and the same can 
be said of their crews. The oars were three times 
their ordinary thickness, though the ice was frequently 
beaten from them. It was no time to ask questions. 
I wanted to see how my three men were. They could 
scarcely stand, and all staggered as thev gained the 
deck, on being helped out of the boat. Several of the 
Esquimaux were but little better off, and reeled like 
drunken men around the deck. 

William Albion and Richard York had but little 
feeling in their fingers. A hole was soon cut through 

~ it? ~ 

the ice, and some cold sea-water drawn in a deck 
bucket. In this their hands were immersed, and there 
kept till feeling was restored. 

But not so with Lee. He had unfortunately got 



42 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

one of his legs, and consequently his foot, wet, even 
through his skin moccasin. This had occurred three 
days before. He could not get his foot warm after- 
wards, he said, and finally ceased to have feeling in it. 
I concluded that his case was a serious one, and' would 
not let him go near the lire. Drawing a bucket of 
cold water, his foot was plunged in it, after cutting off 
his moccasin, which could not be pulled off. Leg, 
stocking, and moccasin were apparently frozen to- 
gether. On immersing his foot in the water it became 
incrusted with ice, which was the result of the frost 
coming out of the flesh. After awhile the ice was 
gently removed from the foot, but the frozen member 
was still kept in the water and rubbed until circulation 
was restored. It took all of an hour to soften the 
flesh. This being accomplished, the foot was wrapped 
up to protect it from the cold. The man was then 
given a glass of spirits and sent below. 

It was now the turn of the Esquimaux to be looked 
after. They needed little care, however. They were 
very tired, very hungry, and very thirsty. They drank 
water by the quart, and then they wanted something 
stronger, which was given them. Then they had some- 
thing to eat, and while they were eating I gathered 
from them information concerning their cruise. On 
leaving the schooner they steered in the direction of 
American Harbor. When about six miles from the 
vessel they saw several whales. They then took in 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 43 

their sails, as it was blowing a strong breeze, so that 
they could manoeuvre €or the whale with a better 
chance of success. The whales had two risings, but 
were struck neither time. On the third rising Kiick- 
oo-jug got fast. The whale sounded, and on coming 
to the surface, it being very rough, JN r ep-e-ken failed 
to kill him. The whale now started to run south and 
carried them a long distance before Nep-e-ken was 
enabled to kill him. It was then almost dark, and 
some of the Esquimaux were desirous of letting the 
w r hale go and of returning to the schooner; but Nep-e- 
ken would not consent to this. He said, "The whale 
must and shall be saved, if we have to tow him to 
Kickerton Island," a distance of some sixty miles from 
the schooner and about forty from where they then 
were. 

By the time it was dark they had the whale's flukes 
cut off and were read} T to tow. The whale died on its. 
side, which made it very hard towing. It would have 
been much better to have towed him by the head, 
could they have got hold of it ; but the head was deep 
in frhe water, and the sea was very rough and the wind 
blowing strong. They towed all night. Once they 
parted from the whale. It was very dark, and they 
had considerable difficulty in finding; him a^ain. 

The morning of the 9th of November found them 
about ten miles below American Harbor and about 



44 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

forty from the schooner. They were not far from the 
land, and the wind and the sea were driving them di- 
rectly towards it. 

They soon reached land, and were fortunate in 
finding a little bay, sheltered from the sea, into which 
they towed the whale. .Nep-e-ken was determined 
to secure the whale; so, instead of starting for the 
schooner, he waited until the tide rose so that he could 
haul the prize high upon the beach. The tides on the 
full and change of the moon were about twenty-two 
feet at this time, and about eighteen feet at high water. 
They hauled the whale as far upon the beach as they 
could, and in assisting at this young Lee slipped over- 
board from a rock, fortunately, however, getting only 
one leg wet. 

It was now r quite dark, and, as there was consider- 
able young ice drifting in the gulf, they dared not start 
for the schooner until daylight. They had no water. 
Their provisions were consumed, and their condition 
was anything but enviable. They appeased their hun- 
ger by eating black-skin cut from the whale, but it was 
some time before the white men could be prevailed 
upon to submit to this diet. Some blubber was also 
cut from the whale and beaten into a jelly-like mass, 
and, having a small piece of cotton canvas, they 
picked it to pieces for wi eking and then saturated it 
with oil from the blubber. Setting fire to this mass 
on the snow, thev soon had the water running:. Each 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 45 

man in turn knelt down on the snow and drank the 
greasy fluid ; and thus was the thirst of the party, 
which had begun to be almost intolerable, quenched 
for a time. The natives laid down for a sleep, but the 
white men could not sleep on the snow at first. When 
they did get drowsy Nep-e-ken permitted them to rest 
only a short time, and then started them up ; nor 
would he allow them to lie down again, during the 
night, more than ten minutes at a time. 

On the morning of the 10th of November the wind 
was blowing heavily from the north-west. The- boats 
would, therefore, have head -winds to contend with 
had they started. They did not make the attempt. 
More black-skin was cut and eaten, and water was 
prepared for drinking purposes as on the night pre- 
vious. 

The weather was more favorable on the 11th, and 
the party started for the schooner, but experienced 
great difficulty in keeping clear of the young and drift- 
ing ice. Night overtook them before they reached 
their destination, and they landed on a small island, 
where they suffered much from hunger, thirst, and 
cold. At daybreak they started again. They could 
not see for the frost fog, but managed to reach the 
schooner just before dark. 



Through the month of November, or what remained 



46 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.' 

of the month, there was but little change in the wea- 
ther. The ice made slowly and we had considerable 
snow, which covered and protected the ice in the har- 
bor. The sea was still open outside. 
• The Esquimaux, having recruited strength and over- 
come the fatigues of their expedition, went out seal- 
ing among the islands, where the ice had formed, but 
with indifferent success. Mr. Kumlein ventured out 
on the ice once with a boat-hook, and fell or broke 
through, but he escaped with a good wetting. 

Some few ducks lingered still, loath to leave. Some 
of them were shot, and a few gulls were also captured. 
Mr. Sherman was zealously employed in his scientific 
observations on shore. 

He has a good-sized canvas tent, with a stove in it. 
As soon as the snow is in a condition to cut into blocks 
the tent will be covered with a snow iglau, which will 
make it quite comfortable. 

December 1. — Ice formed out in the gulf, as far 
as the eye can reach, in a single night! Some of the 
natives ventured out on the newly-formed ice look- 
ing for seal. 

Upon examining Kep-e-ken's boat I found that it 
was almost ruined. The copper sheathing was entirely 
torn off, her planking nearly cut through, and her two 
after-thwarts split and splintered badly. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 47 

On the 6th of December, the ice being in a good 
condition, I was determined to get the bone from the 
head of the whale captured by the natives, and con- 
sulted JS T ep-e-ken. He was ready in a moment. The 
natives were called and the dogs harnessed; tackle, 
provisions, spades and axes to cut with, and finally 
rum, were made ready for the expedition, — and they 
were off with a hurrah ! It will be no easy task, I 
know. Ice has covered the whale by this time, and, 
as it lies in the shore ice, they will have to expend 
'much labor in getting to it. The upper surface of the 
whale will be frozen very hard. But it is worth the 
trial. It is a large cow-whale, and there are, probably, 
two- thousand pounds of bone in its head. If it could 
have been brought alongside of the schooner, about 
one hundred and forty barrels of oil could have been 
extracted from the blubber. 

Everything went along as usual until the 9th, when 
a sleigh was reported coming from the south. I con- 
cluded it was some of our natives returning from 
the expedition to the whale. Mr. Burrows, the second 
officer, who is of a very inquisitive turn of mind, 
started off to meet the sled, which was not very far 
away. • He had gone about two hundred yards when 
he came to a crack running from the small island 
astern of the schooner to an island lying some six 
hundred yards to the north. J^ot being troubled with 
an overplus of caution, he did not notice that the tides 



48 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

had opened the crack and that young ice had formed 
in it. He stepped upon it, and clown he went up to 
his armpits. His situation was both dangerous and 
comical. ■ His lugubrious looks, as though he was 
desirous of assistance, jet ashamed to ask for it, I 
never shall forget. He finally got out without help. 
He came on board all in a lump, with his arms 
akimbo, changed his clothes, and concluded he was 
the hero of the season. 

The sleigh contained Inue-mar-ket and Shu-mar- 
ker. The latter had cut his head very badly with a 
spade — a blubber spade. These spades are as sharp as 
a razor. Mr. Sisson washed and dressed the wound 
and put a few stitches in it. 

The Esquimaux report Eep-e-ken and his men at 
work on the whale. They have one side of the head 
out, and will get the other out to-day. They want a 
little more bread and considerably more rum, as their 
supplies are running short. Those articles were got 
ready, and Inue-mar-ket (whom we called Jonah) 
will start early in the morning for the whale, leaving 
Shu-mar-ker behind. I should not be surprised to 
hear that the latter had been playing loose with jNep- 
e-ken's rum. He is excessively fond of spirits. • 

On the 11th the Esquimaux all returned, bringing 
with them a considerable quantity of the bone. They 
had got it all out of the whale's head and stored it on 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 49 

the rocks. I want to secure the rest as soon as pos- 
sible. I have arranged with Nep-e-ken about going to 
Molly Kater-nuna to trade for skins, and also to bring 
two teams of dogs to assist in getting the bone to the 
schooner. We have but few dogs. Many have died 
this fall from a disease resembling hydrophobia. He 
will start in the morning. Just before dark two sleighs 
were seen coming from the eastward. The weather is 
quite thick, with occasional snow-falls. 

The sleighs arrived and were soon alongside the 
schooner, and proved to be in charge of Roach and 
Hall, from . Kickerton Island. They had started two 
days previous, and slept one night on the ice. They 
were going to Niantilic to spend the holidays with 
the Scotchmen. Not being able to cross the gulf 
direct, which would have been much the shorter route, 
on account of water, they are taking the circuit around 
its head. 

We soon gave them a substantial supper, and they 
were made as comfortable as possible. They are very 
desirous that I shall accompany them. I do not feel 
like going. It is a poor time of the year to travel, the 
days being short and the ice, in many places between 
the island and the shore, where the current runs strong, 
being scarcely safe. 

December 13. — Nep-e-ken started early this morning 
for Molly Kater-nuna. Captain Hall and Mr. Kumlein 
4 



50 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

are off sealing, and Captain Eoach and myself amuse 
ourselves as best we can. He related a little adven- 
ture he had at Kickertou. Just as the ice made this 
fall a large she-bear, with two cubs, made her appear- 
ance on the island. Roach's natives got sight of her, 
and were on the alert to shoot her. So was Eoach, 
who, in his eagerness to get a good shot, got too near. 
Both the cubs were wounded and could not keep 
up with the mother. She stood at bay and received 
several bullets, but none brought her down. She 
finally sighted Eoach, and, rushing toward him, she 
reared on her hind legs and placed her fore paws on 
his shoulders and bore him down. Then the dogs 
were at her hind parts, and she released Eoach from 
her grasp to attack them. Eoach, thus relieved, re- 
gained his feet; but she was loath to leave him, and 
turned on him with more fierceness than before. Tie 
was again borne down, but the infuriated beast was so 
harassed by the men and dogs that she turned and 
beat a precipitate retreat, receiving several shots as she 
ran. The cubs were captured, and the mother was 
next clay found dead on a distant part of the island. 

I have concluded to accompany Eoach and Hall on 
their trip to Mantilic. We start to-morrow. Captain 
Hall and Mr. Kumlein returned to-day from sealing. 
They had no luck. 

On the morning of the 14th we were off at daybreak 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 51 

It was blowing quite heavily, and the snow was drift- 
ing very badly. I started on foot, as the sleigh was not 
quite ready; but I had not gone very far before Cap- 
tain Hall overtook me, and I got on his sleigh. It ap- 
pears that Koach had some difficulty in finding his dogs, 
which delayed him. "We had gone ten miles, perhaps, 
when we found it necessary to clean the dogs' harness. 
There was yet no sign of Roach. I was not very well 
clad, having on only a single suit of deer-skin, while 
the others had double suits. The wind was now blow- 
ing very strong, and snow, to a height of eight or ten 
feet above the ice, was flying so thick and with so 
much violence that we could scarcely see the dogs 
twenty feet ahead of us. 

While the Esquimaux were cleaning the harness — 
they both had Esquimaux drivers — I concluded to walk 
ahead, expecting, of course, that the sleigh would fol- 
low me in a few minutes. I kept on for some time, 
when suddenly it occurred to me that the sleigh ought 
to be up with me. I looked back, but could see noth- 
ing; the snow was drifting too thick for that. I walk- 
ed on again, thinking the sleigh must be near, and I 
continued walking slowly about an hour longer, and 
then began to get alarmed. I knew I had kept in the 
right direction, having the wind and the heavens to 
guide me. 

Certainly the sleigh could not have passed me ! 

I started back on my track to see what occasioned 



52 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

the delay, but went with very little hope of finding it. 
I kept the trail for twenty or more minutes, and then 
lost it. 

The drifting snow had covered it completely. I was 
in a rather awkward dilemma, but there was no alter- 
native but to wait till the snow ceased to drift, so that 
I could see land, which could be reached bv jroins: 
ill the direction from which the wind came. I con- 
tinued walking about half an hour, when suddenly I 
discovered a dark object through the drifting snow. 
It disappeared almost immediately from sight. Soon 
after I saw it again, and it again vanished ; again it 
appeared and vanished; but I was walking toward it. 
A moment more and I saw two dark spots on the ice. 
1 was soon up with the objects of my curiosity, which 
proved to be Roach and Hall. 

They were as surprised to see me as I was to see them. 

Hall, on cleaning his harness, did not start, but 
waited for Roach to come up. 

Roach had been delayed by his dogs, and it was 
some time before he came. He had great difficulty 
in seeing and keeping Hall's sled tracks, as they were 
almost obliterated by the drifting snow when he pass- 
ed over them. He had at one time almost resolved 
to turn back, but he kept on. Upon his arrival he 
w r as astonished and alarmed to learn that I had gone 
on ahead. He instantly looked for my tracks near 
the sleighs, but could not find them. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 53 

Roach was an old, experienced traveller, and he 
knew my peril. Both men immediately set about 
finding my trail. Their sleighs were driven north 
and then south, making an angle at ever}' turn. They 
hoped by that means to cross my track, and by fol- 
lowing it overtake me. That was what they were do- 
ing when I discovered them. 

We stopped to refresh ourselves with a piece of froz- 
en pork and biscuit, washed clown with a little diluted 
rum, and then continued on our way toward Molly 
Kater-nuna. ' We could not see to guide the dogs, but 
went by the wind, which was to the northward, and 
kept it on our backs. 

The sun went clown about 2 o'clock p.m., and short- 
ly after the wind died away. We found ourselves too 
far off shore, and had to haul up some four or five 
points for our place of destination. Night came on, 
and we were still far from Molly Kater-nuna; but the 
atmosphere was clear, and we had the moon to guide 
us with her friendly light. 

We had not {Droceecled far, after this, before we met 
with a disagreeable mishap. We were going between 
some islands, about seven miles from a settlement of 
Esquimaux, when suddenly down went the sleigh that I 
was on. I was half asleep, and w r as naturally somewhat 
startled. I came near jumping in the water, but saw 
the situation in time to save myself from a cold bath. 

The after-part of the sleigh was partly submerged, 



54 THE CRUISE OP THE FLORENCE. 

and Roach's driver, a young Esquimaux, went in the 
water up to his armpits. 

I threw myself forward as the sleigh went down, 
and lay for a moment with my feet dangling in the 
water. The sled was heavily laden with a trunk con- 
taining provisions, sleeping bags, deer-skins, and many 
articles useful in this kind of travel. 

The load was filled up to a height of three feet, and 
on the top of this we sat, when we rode. 

Roach, who was driving, was sitting on the forward 
end of the sled, which was still resting -on the ice as 
its rear went down. The dogs stopped short upon the 
breaking of the ice, but it was only for a moment. 
Roach uttered a terrific yell, and, with a flourish of 
the whip, made them bound forward and draw the 
sled — with Roach, myself, and the young Esquimaux 
clinging to it — on safer ice, and there we halted. 
Hall, who was in the rear, profited by our experience, 
and avoided the weak spot in the ice, 

As soon as we stopped the boy lay down in the 
snow and began to roll. This was to dry his clothes; 
probably upon the same principle as that on which 
a dog dries himself by shaking when he comes out 
of the water. He would roll awhile, then pound his 
clothes with the butt of his whip, and repeat this ma- 
noeuvre until he was satisfied. 

We now refreshed ourselves again with a little froz- 
en pork and biscuit and some rum. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 55 

Again we moved on. We had gone about four 
miles, and were about three from the settlements just 
mentioned, when the ice broke under us a second 
time. The accident was not so serious this time, how- 
ever, and I escaped with one wet moccasin and the 
boy with two. 

We resumed our journey after a brief stoppage, and 
reached the Esquimaux huts at 7.30 p. m. The natives 
mustered in force to see who the new-comers were. 
Among them I found ]5Tep-e-ken. We had not seen his 
back-track, and I concluded that he was still at Kater- 
nuna. He arrived here on the evening of the same 
day on which he left the Florence. He traded for 
quite a number of skins, and hired two sleighs, with 
drivers, to accompany him back and assist in getting 
the bone to the schooner. 

All three sleighs started on the morning of the 14th 
for the schooner. They had just got clear of the shore 
ice, when down went Nep-e-ken's sleigh, and he and 
Eg-e-low r , who was with him, went with it. The two 
natives on the other sleighs assisted them to get out, 
and they all returned to the huts, two of them wetter 
if not wiser men. They were drying their clothes 
when we arrived, and they intend to start again in the 
morning. 

On the morning of the 15th the weather proved 
clear, but very cold, with a light breeze from the 



56 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

north-west, I concluded to return with Nep-e-ken. 
The men must be provided with provisions for their 
journey, and they must also be paid when through. 
Then, too, we had a number of skins, and the squaws 
must be put at work cleaning them and making them 
into clothing; and it is just about as difficult to get 
some of these squaws to work as it is to get some of 
their more favored sisters, in more civilized countries, 
to do the same thing. 

The sleighs were made ready for our journey, and, 
wishing my companions a pleasant trip, we started for 
the schooner. 

Nep-e-ken's sleigh was heavily laden. It carried, 
besides himself, Eg-e-low and a load of skins. An- 
narkshuk, one of the hired natives, also had a load of 
skins; but he had good dogs and a fast sleigh. So on 
his sleigh I seated myself as soon as we got clear of 
the shore ice. I suppose it was at least 10 o'clock in 
the morning, (it is not daybreak until noon,) and it 
was now near sunrise. 

Avoiding the dangerous places of yesterday's jour- 
ney, we went rapidly. The dogs seemed to be in their 
best humor. Upon getting clear of the islands, we 
found the ice clear and firm. 

The gale of yesterday and the cold snap had done 
much to improve it. We took a shorter route than 
we traversed on the way up, as the weather was clear 
and we could see where we were 2;'oin^. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 57 

Coming to some boles, kept open by the strong cur- 
rents, the natives stopped to get a seal, if possible ; 
but they did not succeed, and we started on. 

Our dogs kept going at a rapid rate until we reach- 
ed the schooner, which we did at 2.45 p. m., having 
travelled some forty-five miles in less than six hours ! 

Nep-e-ken and the other sleigh arrived before we 
got through dinner. 

On the morning of the 16th the natives were up and 
doing bright and earlv. Three sleighs and three driv- 
ers were started for the whale. The other natives 
were away sealing. 

On the 18th the sleighs returned with three light 
loads of bone. 

'On the 19th they returned for the remainder, and 
got back the same night, when the hired natives were 
paid and started for their homes. 

We were now settled down to the dull and monoto- 
nous life of winter in the Arctic regions. 

One at home cannot imagine how dull this life is. 
Isolated from all the world, we must make a world of 
our own ; we must build one in our imaginations, and 
picture it with smiling faces ; picture to ourselves the 
grassy lawn of the new-born spring, the budding of 
the trees, — their blossoming and leaving, their matur- 
ity and decav. 



58 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

The old year is dying, " hoary and frosty with age." 
How many hopes die with it ! 

The new year is coming. It is here even at this 
moment. It is born! — the year of our Lord 1878! 
It comes to us with a smiling face, as if happy at be- 
ing ushered into Time ! 

We spent our New-Year as pleasantly as possible 
under the circumstances, forgetting for a time at least 
that we were in the icy solitudes of the Arctic, far 
isolated from our homes and friends. 

The Esquimaux are sealing every favorable day, 
but they are having poor success. 

There is a scarcity of seals this winter. I am told 
that last winter they were plenty, 

Lee's foot is in a bad condition. The flesh is gone 
entirely from the heel, leaving the bone bare. The 
flesh is also gone from the side of the foot and the 
toes, from one of which latter the bone is protruding. 
We keep a poultice on the foot continually, and I hope 
to save the frozen member from amputation. The 
other two men are all right. 

Upon opening some boxes the other day I found 
one sent by Colonel Lupton, an intimate friend of 
the late Captain Hall. It contained a small Hag, 
which, as Colonel Lupton writes, (for a letter was 
also found in the box,) accompanied Doctors Kane 
and Hayes, and also Captain Hall, in their perilous ex- 
peditions in the Arctic seas. There w T as also a large- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 59 

sized photographic portrait (framed) of Captain Hall. 
In this letter the Colonel requests that^the flag, which 
is now historical, be planted at the northernmost point 
of the earth that we are able to reach. 

The snow lies- heavily upon the ice and presses it 
down. The water comes up through the pores of the 
ice, and between water and snow the travelling could 
not be worse. The slush is nearly knee-deep. The 
natives are getting no seals, or, at least, but very few ; 
and men, women, and children flock to the schooner 
for something to eat, which cannot be refused them. 

We get all the seal-meat we can for Lee, to prevent 
the scurvy from getting in his foot. He is doing very 
well, and the foot will be saved. 

I have had several conversations with the Esqui- 
maux in regard to their going with us to the East 
Land, as the} 7 always call the coast of Greenland. 
Some say they will go; others fear to go. The latter 
are afraid of the "mulling" (sea) in such a little ves- 
sel as the Florence. Others, again, have mothers who 
do not want them to go; then, again, brothers and 
sisters, uncles and aunts and cousins, and I do not 
know what else. 

Nep-e-ken has promised to go; also Obe-tun, Thu-nu- 
ping-nar, Inue-mar-ket, and Al-o-kee, making live in 
all. I have also the promise of several at Niantilic; 
but heaven only knows what the spring will bring 
forth. If so many vessels were not there, I could 



60 THE CRUISE OP THE FLORENCE. 

handle the natives better. Now I pretend indifference 
whether they go or not. 

On the 1st of December we commenced on two 
meals a clay, — breakfast at- 9 a. m. ; dinner at 3.30 p. 
m. "We thus save some provision and fuel, the latter 
of which is getting low. 

January passed as all the winter months generally 
do in the Arctic. The weather was variable. On 
some days the wind blew strong and snow fell or 
drifted, and on others it was clear, but upon all cold. 
The time was occupied principally in keeping the 
snowbank around the ship in good order ; cutting a 
supply of ice from the fresh water or ice ponds for 
cooking and drinking purposes; keeping the squaws 
at work when we could get them skins to work on ; 
and trying to keep the devil as far from us as possible. 
The natives have occupied their time, as usual, seal- 
ing. 

The mates and myself occasionally have to clean 
our berths. They are directly under the companion- 
way, and every time the doors are opened there is a 
rush of cold air from above into the cabin, and our 
state-rooms being directly under, it centers there and 
turns into ice. 

The lockers and the drawers are in the same con- 
dition. Often, when about to retire, I find the blankets 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 61 

frozen to the side of the berth, and the books, papers, 
and clothing in a like condition from freezing. Our 
kerosene oil is also frozen, and is consequently much 
injured. 

On the 24th of January the mate of the Helen F. 
arrived from Kickerton Island, bringing Chummy, 
( Shu-mar-pi ng-uter,) who went over to American Har- 
bor in one of Murray's boats last fall, on a visit, and 
was carried to Mantilic. 

The mate informed me that Roach and Hall reached 
]S T iantilic on the fourth day after I left them. He also 
informed me that the only whale that had been cap- 
tured by any of the four ships wintering at Niantilic 
was that taken by Captain Watson, as already men- 
tioned. The three other ships are clear. He told me 
that the ships broke out from their winter quarters in 
the fierce November gales and had a narrow escape, 
but finally regained their quarters, Murray, with his 
steamer, assisting them. 

The number of whales taken during the fall in the 
gulf now amounts to live, — Roach two, Hall one, Wat- 
son one, and our crew one; but all the others have a 
chance for spring whaling, and I have none. 

I concluded to go back with the mate, as it would 
be a break in the monotonous life we were leading, 
and prevailed on Fred, the mate, to stop till the fol- 
lowing day and give his dogs a good rest and feed, so 



62 THE CRUISE OF THE FLOBENCE. 

that they would be in good condition to continue their 
journey. 

Fred had been two days coming from Kickerton to 
Annanatook Harbor. He described the travelling as 
very bad. 

The morning of the 26th we had an early start. We 
were accompanied by Eg-e-low, who, with live dogs 
and a sleigh, was going to the Kickertons for a wife 
(nuleanger). Oc-a-took, also with a like number of 
dogs and a sleigh, was going to the whale for dog- 
meat, and would spend a few clays sealing at one of 
the many holes kept open by the currents even in the 
coldest winters. We had scarcely cleared the harbor 
when we fell in with the snow. It was about three 
feet deep, with water underneath. 

The early snow was still there. A thin crust had 
formed on the surface, protecting the light snow be- 
neath from wind and frost. The surface crust was 
not strong enough to bear the weight of the dogs 
when they straightened in their harness to pull. 

Fred, who had fifteen dogs but a very heavy sleigh, 
had the lead, but he soon became exhausted driving 
aud urging the dogs along; so he gave three dogs to 
Oc-a-took, and asked him to take the lead with his 
eight and small sleigh. Tnis he did, and we went 
along somewhat faster; but we did not arrive at the 
whale, which was on our line of journey, until even- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 63 

iug. Here we slept. The dogs were exhausted. Their 
feet and legs were cut by the snow crust and were 
bleeding at every step. After eating a piece of bis- 
cuit and frozen pork, we lay down on the ice to sleep. 

In the morning we were up by daybreak. The dogs 
were soon harnessed, and we were oft*. We hoped to 
reach Kickerton that day, have a good warm supper, 
and something besides ice to sleep on. Eg-e-low, who 
was still with us, had a light sled; so Fred gave 
him three dogs and he took the lead. Eg-e-low had 
now eight dogs, and with his easy-running sleigh he 
went along very well, but not fast. Our dogs were, 
of course, anxious to keep up with him, and did keep 
close to the stern of his sled. At sundown we were 
abreast of Hay-stack Island, twelve miles from Kick- 
erton. 

This small island resembles a hay-stack in form; 
hence its name. 

It was getting dark, and though clear over head 
the atmosphere was thick below. We kept on, hoping 
to reach the station by 8 or 9 o'clock that evening. 
About 5 o'clock in the evening we sighted an island 
which is called Calle Corotes Island. It is a small 
one, about three miles from the station. We con- 
tinued to drive toward the island, but apparently got 
no nearer. We kept on in this way until about 8 
o'clock, when I told Fred that if it was not for the 
north star, which we could see, I should think Eg-e-low 



64 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

was driving around and around the island, for we were 
certainly getting no nearer to it, but were apparently 
about the same distance from it that we were three 
hours before. 

Fred finally called to Eg-e-low to stop, and they both 
endeavored to ascertain where we were, which was a 
difficult thing to do, owing to the mist. Presently the 
native ejaculated, with a grunt, "Kickertojuck! Kick- 
ertojuck ! " " The hig island ! The big island ! " And 
he was right; we were in the entrance to Kingnito 
Fiord, and the big island Kickertojuck stood before 
us, with its bold shores reaching an elevation of some 
three thousand feet above our heads. There was noth- 
ing to do but to make the best of it. We had come 
from Hay-stack Island to Kickertojuck, a distance of 
twelve miles. The same amount of travel in the right 
direction would have carried us to the station. We 
were now about ten miles north-east of the station. 
TTfe poor dogs were moauing piteously with pain and 
fatigue. 

The weather, though clear in the zenith, was heavy 
and thick below. 

It was necessary to pass another night on the ice ; so, 
eating a piece of bread and pork, we drew our deer-skin 
jackets (couletangs) about us and composed ourselves 
for sleep; at least I did. I was awakened several 
times durins: the night by the moaning of the dogs, 
and by Fred in the morning, when he was stamping 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. Go 

his feet to get them warm and passing some cursory 
remarks upon the dogs for eating their harness. 

After making . necessary repairs to the harness, we 
started for the station, and arrived there about 2 
o'clock p. m. We were met by the four captains, who 
extended a warm greeting to us. Soon we were re- 
galed with something to eat, to which we did ample 
justice. 

I staid at the Kickertons until the 14th of February. 
Nothing unusual occurred during my stay, except one 
very heavy gale, which began on the 11th and abated 
on- the morning of the 13th. 

On the morning of the 13th, everything being ready 
and the gale having died out, Eoach and Fred decided 
to go up with me. The clogs were harnessed, the sled 
was loaded, and Fred got on the sleigh to drive the 
dogs down over the rough shore ice, which here ex- 
tended some four or five hundred yards, the shore 
being flat. 

There was a track leading through this rough ice, 
made by the Esquimaux going to and fro from Kicker- 
ton Island, some twelve miles to the north. The dogs, 
being fresh, started off with a bound. On entering the 
rough ice Fred was thrown some ten feet from the sleigh. 
The dogs were now their own masters. They did not 
stop, but continued on until they brought up at Hay- 
stack Island, where they were stopped by the natives. 
I walked back to the house with Roach. We were 
5 



66 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

scarcely one hundred yards from it when the mishap 
occurred. The dogs and sleigh were brought back 
that night, and we concluded to make another start in 
the morning. 

The weather on the morning of the 14th was line, 
and we got away early. Koach had all hands out, and 
lashing a long oog-jook line to the rear-part of the sleigh, 
the men held on to the line while the sleigh was going 
through the rough ice. 

Once getting through the shore ice, the clogs were 
stopped and the harness was cleaned. Then we seated 
ourselves on the sleigh, the dogs were let go, and away 
we went over the rough but hard ice; now on top of 
some rough piece of ice, and then down with the speed 
of lightning on the other side. 

Twice the sleigh brought up with such force as to 
send us all headlong among the dogs. We continued 
through this rough ice ten or twelve miles, and were 
congratulating ourselves on having good though rough 
travelling, when suddenly we struck the deep snow. 
The dogs no longer went on a clean run. They were 
breast-deep in the soft snow, and even without a heavy 
sleigh and load it would have been severe pulling for 
them. 

The poor auimals had at least one thousand or twelve 
hundred pounds behind them. There were three good- 
sized men, weighing in the aggregate at least live hun- 
dred pounds ; two large bags of .dog-meat, weighing 



WINTER IX CUMBERLAND GULF. 67 

about three hundred ; one chest of provisions, a saw. 
knife, two guns; a spear, and two or three pieces of 
bear and dog skin, which latter we intended using 
for bedding should we be caught over night ; and then 
there was the sleigh, weighing about one hundred 
pounds. We had seventeen dogs, and good ones, too, 
they were. With good sledding we would have gone 
over the ice at the rate of eight or ten miles an hour. 
As it was, we were not making more than two. We 
went on wading through the snow, now jumping off 
the sled to help the dogs, and, getting out of breath, 
taking our places again on the sleigh, each taking his 
turn at helping the dogs along, until late in the even- 
ing, when, both men and animals beins; thoroughly 
tired, we stopped and unharnessed the dogs, to prevent 
them from eating their harness during the night. We 
took a few mouthfuls to eat, and, spreading our bear 
and dog skins, we lay down to sleep. Twice I was 
awakened in the night by Fred getting up and stamp- 
ing to get his feet warm, and once by one of the dogs 
trying to make a bed of my head. I objected to the 
latter proceeding, and the animal was content to lie 
alongside of me. 

The morning of the 18th was fine, and we were un- 
der way by dayb.reak. The travel was nothing more 
nor less than a repetition of the day before. It was evi- 
dent that the heavy gale we had at Kickerton three days 



68 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

before did not reach here. The snow was, if anything, 
deeper than when I came down. Just before dark we 
struck an old track, and- the dogs pricked up their ears, 
threw up their tails, and went along much faster than 
before. The snow, too, in this track was not so deep 
as elsewhere, which made the travelling still better. 
The wind breezed up from the west, bringing snow 
with it; but the dogs had the trail, and it must, in- 
deed, be a bad condition of weather that could make 
them lose it. 

The snow became less and less deep as we went to- 
ward the north-w T est. We were thus enabled to make 
good headway, and at 6.30 o'clock we were alongside 
the Florence. 

The dogs were delighted to get to the vessel, and 
did not stop until they had ascended the ice steps 
which we have alongside. 

I now learned that Nep-e-ken had been very sick, but 
was convalescent ; also that the gale which we had at 
Kickerton did not extend this far. The natives had 
taken a few seals. Jonah and Chummy had gone to 
Niantilic, — the first for a wife for himself, and the sec- 
ond for a wife for Eg-e-low, who had failed to get one 
at Kickerton. 

Everything now goes along as usual. We eat, 
drink, sleep, read, write, and play cards. 

Roach and his mate started for home on the 18th. 
Several dog -teams have arrived from Kater-nuna. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 69 

One of the Esquimaux women from Molly Kater-nuna 
gave birth to a child the morning of the 15th. She 
is a young squaw, but is more prolific than the abori- 
gines of the Arctic regions usually are, as this makes 
her third child now living. I was on shore the day 
before her confinement, and noticed her husband 
Winga was busy in building a small iglau or snow- 
house, about the size of a clog kennel. I asked Roach 
what in the world he was building such a small house 
for. He answered that the man's wife was about t© 
be confined. Of course I then understood the situa- 
tion. I have often seen these little snow huts put up 
in the coldest weather, and the poor wife, no matter 
how cold it is, is compelled to take shelter therein, 
and, without attendance, is there delivered. She is 
her own doctress and nurse, and washes and dresses 
the little stranger. She remains in the hut a few days, 
and then returns to her people. 

On the 19th Jonah and Chummy returned from 
Kiantilic, bringing two squaws: one, Chummy's wife ; 
the other, Tow-pouug, the affianced of Eg-e-low. All 
this means hard bread and pork from the Florence, — 
a fact of which I am duly made aware. It will be an 
addition of two to our already large family. 

Chummy reports that scurvy is raging among the 
men at Mantilic. So far there has not been even the 
least appearance of it among our crew. They are all 
well, excepting Lee, and his foot has healed and is as 



70 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

natural as before, save a small spot on the ball of the 
heel. 

On the 24th Roach's mate, Fred, came from Kick- 
erton on a clog sled. He reports two very heavy 
gales at Kickerton. We have had none here. An- 
nan atook Harbor should be named Pacific Harbor. 

Having forgotten or neglected to bring ink, I am 
compelled to manufacture my own, which is done 
with gunpowder and vinegar. 
•Roach's mate staid two days, and then left for home. 

Nep-e-ken, Ete-tun, Kim-mock-kone, Eg-e-low, Al-o- 
kee, Inue-mar-ket, and families have removed to Glou- 
cester Island, some ten or twelve miles distant, where 
they hope to get seal. This makes my family at the 
schooner somewhat smaller; but we appear to have 
just as many to feed. Every Monday, all through the 
winter, has been provision day ; that is, the day the 
provision or w r eekly allowance was dealt out to the 
squaws and children. In the commencement of the 
winter I forbade the squaws and children coming to 
the vessel. In lieu thereof I gave them four pounds 
of bread, one cup of green tea or coffee, and one quart 
of molasses weekly ; but, seals being scarce, and some 
of the squaw r s having two or three children, they would 
soon consume that small allowance, and of course I 
could not see them suffer. After their allowance was 
gone I let them come to the vessel for additional sup- 
plies, and gave to each a "little boiled meal and mo- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 71 

lasses and a cup of coffee or tea. In this way I have 
feci, including the crew, thirty-five or forty persons 
since the 1st of October. 

Nothing strange or new has occurred during the 
month of February. 

We have had snow-storms now and then through- 
out the month. 

March ushered itself in without ceremony. The 
weather was very cold, but it was bright and sunshiny. 
We received occasional visits from the natives en- 
camped at Gloucester Island, but they brought but 
little seal-meat. They had caught but few seals ; in 
fact, scarcely enough to furnish them oil for their 
lamps. Captain Hall's cooper was here recently look- 
ing for seal-skin, for which he wished to trade. 

March 15. — The last fourteen clays have been in- 
tensely cold. The thermometer indicated minus 35° 
to 45° daily. The Esquimaux are catching a few 
seals, but even they complain of the cold. 

Ne'p-e-ken was here on the 13th, after the weekly 
allowance to the natives at Gloucester Island. He 
brought us some skins and seal-meat, and reports very 
strong wind at the island. We have experienced no 
unusual winds here, — a strange fact, in view of the 
proximity of the two localities. I dispatched Oc-a- 
took with a quantity of "trade" to Molly Kater-nuna 



7Z THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

this morning, to trade for skins, and be took two deer- 
skins, Avliich are used instead of thread in making up 
skin-clothing. He only had five dogs hitched to his 
sleigh. Nearly all of our dogs have died. The weath- 
er is now moderating. The thermometer registered 
minus 35° last night, and this morning minus 12°. 
It is still getting warmer, and a storm is threatening. 

In a few days the natives will choose their locations 
for the } 7 oung sealing. Each Esquimaux takes a par- 
ticular section, several miles in extent. These seals — 
the "netzik" of the Esquimaux — are their chief food 
in winter, and furnish the skins of which they make 
their summer clothing. They are smaller than the 
kiolick — or, as the English call them, the "saddle- 
back" — of the east coast of Greenland and the coast 
of Labrador. Great numbers of them are taken each 
spring by English, Scotch, and Newfoundland whaling 
crews, and one would naturally suppose that this whole- 
sale destruction would destroy them in these seas; yet, 
strange to say, it has caused no appreciable diminution 
of their numbers. 

The kiolick or saddle-back seal has its young on the 
drift or pack ice, and this renders them easy to capture 
when the vessel once gets among them. They lie on 
the ice by the thousand ; at times they extend as far 
as the eye can reach from the crow's nest — or, as an 
American would say, from the mast-head — with a good 
telescope. In hunting them, there is nothing to do 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 73 

but get off the vessel to the ice and knock them in the 
head with a seal club, and then skin them and drag 
them to the ship. Some of the large steamers carry 
many men, — from one hundred to two hundred. 
Therefore the work of destruction goes on rapidly. 

The men are most all experienced hands, many of 
them having followed the business for years. The 
netzik — more timid than its cousin, the kiolick — has 
its young under the ice, or, more properly speaking, 
between the ice and snow. It chooses a place where 
the snow lies deep upon the ice, and, commencing 
underneath, will burrow with its fore flippers a hole 
through the. hard sea ice until it comes to the snow, 
when it stops boring upward and begins to burrow 
longitudinally along the hard surface of the ice under 
the snow. It makes its eglow or burrow quite large ; 
perhaps fifteen feet long and six wide. The hole 
through the ice furnishes access to the sea. The esr- 
low is covered with from two to five feet of snow, and 
this makes it impossible to hunt them without the aid 
of dogs, which scent the eglows through the- snow. 
The dogs, being harnessed and held in by a strap or 
line, will lead the hunter to a spot directly over the 
eglow, and will then stop and whine and scratch. The 
hunter then breaks through the snow, and often se- 
cures both old and young ; but if the young one be 
well grown both mother and young will escape into 



74 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

the sea, unless the hunter is quick in making his 
attack. 

These seals are very beautiful when young. Their 
coats are white and their hair silky, making excellent 
winter clothing. When about two weeks old they 
commence to shed their coats, which are replaced by 
others of light gray in color and silky in texture. They 
are at this time very delicate eating. 

Al-o-kee has just returned from Gloucester Island. 
He reports that very few seals have been caught there. 

I have just received from Shu-mar-ker a neat wood- 
en case, containing three ivory needles. Attached to 
the case were a leather and an ivory thimble, such as 
are used b}' the natives when they are not in commu- 
nication with the ships. They also make from bone, 
knives, seal spears, and harpoons ; the latter for use in 
capturing the great bow-head whale. 

Tradition teaches the Esquimaux that man} r years 
ago they were very numerous, and that game was 
then more abundant than now; that their forefathers 
enjoyed themselves hugely, some of them having 
many wives ; that the men of different tribes warred 
with one another, one tribe often surprising another 
and stealing its women; and that to avoid surprises 
tribes often encamped and fortified themselves upon 
high islands, from which they hurled down death and 
destruction upon the invader. 

They believe in a Supreme Being, and their ankoots 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 75 

are supposed to communicate with it. They also be- 
lieve in an evil spirit, and think that after death the 
bad will go to a different place from the good. Upon 
the death of one of their number they place all his 
hunting implements beside his grave, to assist him in 
his journey to the next world. They also carry food 
to his grave and deposit it there. For three days they 
do this ; then they suppose he is far enough on his 
journey to need no more. The men are separated 
from the women in confinement, and in their monthly 
sickness, or menses. Infanticide is practiced, but the 
females are the ones generally destroyed. Among the 
western tribes this terrible practice prevails to such an 
extent that there are not women enough to furnish 
wives for the men. They are a small race, resembling 
the Chinese or Japanese. They have very small hands 
and feet, and dark and coarse hair. As yet I have 
not seen one bald. They have fine teeth, and some of 
the young girls are quite good-looking; but they break 
down early, and after this they are hideous. 

Chastity is unknown among them. The men often 
exchange wives for a time. No marriage rites or forms 
are observed. The man merely chooses a companion, 
and if she does not suit she is soon cast aside. 

They eat their meat and fish both raw and cooked. 
The story of their drinking large quantities of train 
oil is a fable. They take a little blubber with their 
meat, to help digestion, as we eat fat with ours. 



76 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

They are dirty from circumstances. Put a white 
man here without soap or water and he would be no 
cleaner than the Esquimaux. In fact, the Esquimaux 
are much cleaner than some of our neighbors, whom 
it is very difficult to distinguish from the dirty and 
dark natives of the Arctic zone. 

March 16. — A stormy day, with a strong breeze 
from the north-west and snow. The thermometer, 
which had been ranging very low through the early 
part of the month, fell to zero. 

Nep-e-ken and his party, bag and baggage, arrived 
in the evening. He had come for a visit prior to his 
departure for the young sealing. He informed us that 
at Gloucester Island, a place formerly noted for its 
abundance of seals, they could scarcely catch enough 
to eat. The same scarcity prevailed, he said, at all 
other parts of the gulf that we have heard from. 

The Esquimaux here catch little or nothing, and we 
must, of course, feed them. I believe that had the ships 
not visited Cumberland Gulf this season the natives 
would have suffered greatly for food. 

We cleaned out the run of the Florence to-day, hav- 
ing used all the coal from that quarter. 

March 17. — The storm is over; the weather this 
morning was clear and coM. The thermometer stood 
at minus 25°. JN"ep-e-ken brought me off a young seal. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 77 

It had apparently just made its debut, and it as quick- 
ly made its exit. It was about sixteen inches long. I 
wished to get it stuffed for my little boy. 

There was a beautiful halo around the moon last 
night, a mock moon appearing on each side of the real 
moon and on the ring of the halo. As for the auroras, 
we see them often, but none very brilliant this winter. 
Mr. Sherman, who is up at all times in the night, has 
reported some very brilliant displays. 

Chummy tells us that at times in these northern lat- 
itudes it rains fisb, flesh, and fowl. He also tells me 
that very often the Innuits or Esquimaux see white 
deer and white seals, and that they (the latter) come 
direct from the heavens. 

Oc-a-took arrived this evening from Molly Kater- 
nuna, bringing a strange native with him. He brought 
also six deer-skins, three seal-skins suitable for cloth- 
ing, a good quantity of ewidlow, (deer-sinew,) and a 
piece of oog-jook, which will be good for boot soles. 
This was not a very extensive trade. There are too 
many ships in the gulf, and it makes the skin market 
poor for the buyer and correspondingly good for the 
seller. Oc-a-took reports a very heavy gale of wind 
at Kater-nuna last night, which was still raging when 
he left. Ete-tun reports very heavy winds at Glouces- 
ter Island. He arrived with his family to-day. While 
I am writing this we have another arrival, Pe-ker, from 
Kater-nuna, who brings six deer-skins for trade. We 



78 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

have fed about forty persons to-day — men, women, and 
children. 

March 18. — Weather clear and cold. Thermom- 
eter indicates minus 25°. Most of the Esquimaux are 
off seal-hunting. They returned this evening with 
only one seal. This is allowance day, and bread, mo- 
lasses, tea, and coffee were dealt out to the women. 
Nep-e-ken brought me nineteen seal-skins yesterday. 
"We have quite a number in the hold, but cannot do 
much with them until the weather gets warmer. 

March 19. — Clear and cold.- Esquimaux off sealing. 
They returned without game, but were ready for their 
mush, bread, and pork. Sawed, split, and sent wood 
to- the observatory to-day for Mr. Sherman. Pe-ker 
left to-day for Kater-nuna, promising to bring me some 
young seal-skins this spring. 

March 20. — Light northerly wind. Thermometer 
fell in the night to minus 35°. It rose in the middle 
of the day to minus 15°. Some of the Esquimaux are 
preparing to start for the young sealing. 

Kim-mock-kone and Inue-mar-ket have gone to- 
day with sled and dogs to make a track to the young- 
sealing place. 

We have had as yet no indications of the equinoc- 
tial gales. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 79 

March 21. — Cloudy, with light snow and light west- 
erly wind. 

Xep-e-ken and his party are preparing to leave for 
the young sealing. 

Shu-mar-ker yesterday found two seals that had 
been captured by foxes, and their heads were eaten 
off The foxes destroy in this manner many young 
seals. The natives returned this evening from their 
seal-hunt without game. I am almost oat of patience 
with them. Their failure to get seals makes it bad 
for us. They devour our food, and we get in return 
neither seal-meat nor skins.- I have fitted out Nep-e- 
ken and his party with bread, coffee, tea, molasses, and, 
of course, tobacco and pipes. They start in the morn- 
ing, to be gone, I hope, a month or six weeks. 

March 22. — This morning, about 3 o'clock, a very 
strong wind began blowing from the south-east, with 
snow. The barometer, however, was rising fast, and 
I knew that the gale could not last long. As I conjec- 
tured, at sunrise the gale abated and the wind hauled 
to the westward ; but it had lasted long enough to 
I frighten the Esquimaux from their contemplated jour- 
ney. Thermometer plus 15° this noon, — the warmest 
day we have had for some time. 

March 23. — Cloudy and very warm. Thermometer 
plus 22° at noon. Xep-e-ken and party started early 



80 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

this morning. Shu-mar-ker caught a young seal and 
its mother. I have procured the young one for a 
specimen. 

Two Esquimaux came from Kater-nuna yesterday. 
I traded with them for four young seal-skins, one bear- 
skin, and some deer-sinews. One of these Esquimaux, 
who is without that very necessary but sometimes un- 
ruly convenience, a wife, wished to carry away one of 
•the fair damsels of Annanatook. All that was want- 
ing was the fair one's consent; but she was coy. 

Eg-e-low arrived this morning with his bride. They 
had spent their honeymoon in a snow hut, put up for 
the occasion, somewhere between here and Gloucester 
Island. 

March 24. — Clear and warm. Little puddles of 
snow and ice water were noticed on deck, — -a cheering 
sign of the approach of wanner weather. This has 
been an exceptional month. The first eighteen or 
twenty days were very cold, with light wind, at least 
at Annanatook, and now the weather has suddenly 
moderated and the thermometer shows a change of 
from minus 40° or 50° to the freezing point, — a change 
of from 70° to 80° in temperature. 

The Esquimaux are all off young sealing. Eg-e- 
low departed with his bride this morning for a sealing 
trip. His outfit consisted of one rather dilapidated 
sleigh, three good dogs and one lame one, four or five 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. . 81 

deer-skins for his nuptial couch, sundry pieces of blub- 
ber and seal-meat,, five pounds of bread, one quart of 
molasses, and two ounces of tea. One can easily per- 
ceive that the necessities of these aborigines are but 
few. Where night overtakes them they put up a few 
blocks of snow to protect themselves from the wind, 
spread their skins on the ice, and sleep. 

March 25. — Cloudy, light snow, and light southerly 
wind. Some of the Esquimaux are off hunting young 
seal. One of them, Shu-mar-ker, is laid up with snow- 
blindness. Others are making snow-shoes, as the snow 
is quite deep and travelling difficult. The spoils of 
yesterday's hunt were twelve seals — ten young ones 
and two old ones. One of the old ones was a male. 
The netzik male seal at five years of age has a most 
disgusting smell. The natives, however, relish the 
meat. Indeed, some of them prefer it to the younger 
and sweeter meat. I breakfasted this morning on the 
liver of the female seal caught yesterday. These livers 
are very sweet, and we prize them highly. The liver 
of the large bearded seal is corrupt ; not edible. So, 
also, is the liver of the polar bear, especially the old 
ones. The oog-jook of Davis's Strait, Cumberland 
Gulf, Hudson's Strait, and adjacent waters, I consider 
the same as the oosurk (or ursurk, or oozook) of- Green- 
land. It has an attuk (here called an eglow) or blow- 
hole in the ice. I have seen them caught through 
6 



82 THE CKUISE OF THE FLORENCE, 

these holes the same as they would catch a netzik 
seal. The you use I have taken from the mother when 
nearly ready to be delivered. They are of a dark, 
bluish color. 

March 26. — Cloudy, with occasional snow. The 
thermometer has been plus 33°. All winter our deck 
has been covered with about one foot of snow. This 
covering we kept on the deck to keep the frost out of 
the Florence. To-day we uncovered, and the water 
commenced to run freely on the deck. The snow on 
the ice has softened, the water has pressed its way 
through the ice, and now it stands about six inches 
deep, with about two feet of snow on top, making it 
very bad travelling. 

The natives yesterday captured twelve seals. Some 
of them remained at home to-day to make snow-shoes. 
Shu-mar-ker continues to suffer from snow-blindness. 
Mr. Sisson, who, I believe, is the best mechanic on 
board, is repairing one of the natives' sleighs. Mr. 
Sisson is our cooper, our carpenter, and, indeed, our 
everything in the way of mechanics. 

It has been nearly calm all day, but while I am 
writing this the wind has suddenly come on butt-end 
foremost from the south-east. The Florence trembled 
for a moment and then shook herself free from her 
winter prison, throwing up her stern some six inches, 
and breaking the snowbank which is around her in 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. < 83 

every direction. The vessel is now very much by the 
head, and has a bad list a-port. 

March 27. — Cloudy; wind quite heavy from the 
south-east; occasional snow. Thermometer plus 30°. 
Owing to bad weather, only one of the Esquimaux is 
off hunting to-day. Yesterday they got six seals. The 
boats which we put on the ice last fall were completely 
buried in snow. I had them dug out to-day. I also 
righted the schooner by removing some weight from 
port to starboard. 

William Albion's hand is in a terrible condition. I 
am afraid he will lose the use of it. 

It is said by all of the Esquimaux with whom I have 
conversed that the time for niditication of the Arctic 
raven is February and March ; also, that the eggs of 
this bird will freeze and crack without receiving such 
injury as will prevent their hatching. 

The much -talked -of animal, the wolverine, has 
been described to me as being of a light gray color ; 
smaller than a wolf; thick-set, with sharp, long claws ; 
very powerful and ferocious. The Esquimaux all have 
a wholesome fear of coming in contact with this ani- 
mal. I have heard the same description from Mr. 
Erkims, in Hudson's Strait. 

I have been trying to ascertain from Chummy, who 
has been to the United States with me and is quite 
intelligent, where the Esquimaux first procured their 



84 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

dogs. The tradition is, that in the beginning the 
primitive Esquimaux or Innuits felt great need of 
some beast to drag them to and fro in their hunting 
expeditions, and their ankoots importuned the Great 
Spirit for relief. The} 7 then made some harnesses, 
and placed them by some large white rocks in the far 
north, and in due time a fine team of dogs made their 
appearance in harness, to the gratification of the Es- 
quimaux. 

Shu-mar-ker, who was the only one off hunting yes- 
terday, found only two young seals, and they were 
partly eaten by foxes and ravens. This voracious bird, 
the Arctic raven,' destroys many young seals. They 
even attack and kill the young deer and the puppies 
of the Esquimaux dogs. 

March 28. — Snowing, with light wind from the west. 
Thermometer has fallen to plus 20°, and still falling. 
A sleigh arrived from Kater-nuna last night with one 
man and an old squaw. All the trade they had were 
some deer-skins, which I bought for a little bread. 

March 29. — Cloudy; wind blowing strong from the 
south-east, with occasional squalls. This long contin- 
uation of southerly wind, I fear, will bring the pack- 
iqe of Davis's Strait into the gulf. The Esquimaux 
and ourselves are eutirely out of seal-meat, the weather 
being so bad as to make it impossible to hunt with sue- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 85 

cess. Only one } r oung seal was caught yesterday. They 
are very small as yet, and are scarcely fit to eat. One 
young seal would make about a meal for one native. 
I have heard nothing from !N~ep-e-ken since he de- 
parted on the 23d instant. 

March 30. — Light wind from the south-east. There 
is an occasional spitting of snow, and the weather is 
quite warm. The Esquimaux got only one young 
seal yesterday. A sleigh arrived from Kater-nuna last 
evening with several natives. They had no trade. 

March 31. — Cloudy; occasional snow-squalls, with 
a strong breeze from the north-west; quite cold. Two 
of the six Esquimaux who were hunting yesterday 
returned last night, bringing one seal. The other 
four have not returned. 

There was a very fine display of the aurora last 
night to the south and east of our position. 

A sleigh arrived last night from Molly Kater-nuna, 
bringing me a pair of moccasins and mittens. To bring 
these the native in charge of the sleigh had to travel 
about forty miles coming, and, of course, will have to 
go the same distance returning. He left this morn- 
ing. * 

The late warm weather has nearly destroyed the 
eglows or snow huts of the natives, and it has left 
many of the Esquimaux with very bad coughs. One 



86 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.* 

of the squaws, Kuck-oo-jug's wife, is seriously ill. Pul- 
monary diseases are the only ones indigenous to the 
climate, or, at least, they are the cause of four-fifths of 
all the deaths that occur among the Esquimaux. 

I called all hands this morning to turn the boats 
bottom-up on the ice. I was surprised at the response* 
two men and one lame dog! I did not realize that 
the crew were so few in number until they were col- 
lected together. We have only six men in the fore- 
castle. Two of them are laid up, — one with a frozen 
foot and the other with a sore hand. One man is ap- 
pointed to attend the two disabled ones ; another is 
assisting Mr. Sherman in his scientific observations. 
That takes four from ship duty, leaving only two, be- 
sides the officers, steward, and cabin boy. We man- 
aged,[however, to turn the boats by calling on the 
squaws who were oft' to the schooner waiting for their 
mush. 

April 1.- — Cloudy, with quite a breeze from the north 
and west. Five natives who' were off sealing returned 
last night, after an absence of thirty-six hours. They 
were very tired and hungry, but had been quite fortu- 
nate in their hunt. Kuck-oo-jug, his son, and son-in- 
law caught nineteen young seals and one old one; Al- 
o-kee and Shu-mar-ker, seven young and two old ones. 
The old ones were left behind, for the present, on ac- 
count of the bad travelling. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 87 

Two sleighs arrived from Kater-nuna last evening. 
One of the natives, Eva by name, has been all sum- 
mer and winter in the vicinity of Kennedy's Lake, 
engaged in deer-hunting, but, owing to deep snow, he 
could not bring his skins, of which he says he has 
plenty, down to the ship. 

Two Esquimaux came with the other sleigh. They 
are apparently in search of a runaway wife, or, at least, 
one of them is; but the fair and frail one will not ac- 
company her lord and master back to his castle of 
snow at Kater-nuna. 

Kim-mock-kone likewise arrived to-day. He went 
away with Nep-e-ken, but he and Inue-mar 7 ket sepa- 
rated from him, so that each would have a better 
chance in the hunt. They have taken quite. a number 
of seals, and come down to-day for their allowance of 
provisions and tobacco. 

April 2. — Clear and sunshiny, with strong breeze 
from the north-west; We were employed to-day break- 
ing out the hold, doing some little carpentering, clear- 
ing the decks, &c. Two Esquimaux got three seals 
yesterday. The others, having rested from the fatigue 
of their thirty-six-hour journey, started out this morn- 
ing for another hunt. The fair damsel mentioned 
yesterday fled rather than submit to the wishes of her 
lord. 

The spring tides of March give to the massive ice 



88 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

surrounding our little vessel a rise and fall of twenty- 
four feet and some inches. At the full tides the crunch- 
ing and grinding of the ice, the dashing of the water, 
the gurgling of the eddies, and the toppling over of 
the nicely-poised ice tables along the shores convey a 
most striking impression of the power that is thus 
brought into action. The coldest of winters fails to 
freeze the water in certain localities here. The most 
solid winter ice is open here and there in pools and 
patches worn by currents and tides. Similar openings 
have been found by all previous explorers in the Arc- 
tic seas. Such w T ere the open spaces found by Parry 
in. Wellington Channel ; such are the streamholes 
( strom holes) of the Greenland coast, the polynia of 
the Russians; and such we have here in the most rig- 
orous of winters. The seals resort to these holes in 
great numbers through the winter, and, of course, they 
are favorite places for the Esquimaux hunters, whose 
chief reliance for sustenance through the long Arctic 
winters is the netzik seal. 

The hunting of the seal at the streamholes is not 
without danger to the hunter. At the spring tides or 
full tides of winter — or, more properly speaking, at the 
full and change of the moon, and for several days 
before and after — the tides run very swift, often with 
such velocity as to break large masses of ice (though 
it be several feet in thickness) surrounding the holes, 
and, lifting them up edgewise, carry them under the 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 89 

main floes. Many seals are lost at these holes after 
being shot, the current carrying them down and under 
the ice before the hunter can spear them and draw 
them out. Several of our Esquimaux have had nar- 
row escapes this winter while hunting at these holes. 

In breaking out to-day I found that we have nearly 
all of our fresh meats, soups, peaches, and milk left. 
We have used scarcely any of these articles as yet. 
We have subsisted on pork, hard bread, meal, rice, 
and seals, and thus far not one man has been sick. 
We use no lime juice. 

We have not been housed over, but have left our 
little schooner open and free to the Arctic winds and 
storms, thereby gaining a free circulation of good and 
pure air. At times the thermometer has indicated 
minus 50°, but we were very comfortable, although 
we had the cabin companion-slide partly off and the 
doors open some of the time. With a cheerful mind, 
a cleanly person, pure air, and, of course, something to 
eat, one can defy the scurvy for years. I have no fear 
that my men will be afflicted with it. They eat seal- 
meat, raw or cooked, equal to the Esquimaux. Yes- 
terday they were all on deck surrounding a seal fresh- 
ly killed and skinned. The seal soon disappeared, 
leaving no trace except a few bones and the bloody 
hands and faces of the men. 

April 3. — Clear and sunshiny ; strong breeze from 



90 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

the west. Thermometer at early morning minus 5°. 
The Esquimaux were all off hunting this morning. 
They got but few seals yesterday. I find upon break- 
ing out and taking an inventory of our stores that we 
have remaining about twenty-two hundred pounds of 
bread, thirteen barrels of meat, about nine barrels of 
flour, one barrel of meal, rice, beans, all our hams 
and nearly all our preserved meats and vegetables, 
fruits, &c, notwithstanding the fact that we have fed 
on an average forty persons since October. We have 
only four casks of coal — -probably about three tons — 
remaining, but I think, with the wood we have, it will 
be sufficient to see us through, as we can soon do with- 
out fires, except for cooking purposes. 

There was a very beautiful display of the aurora 
last evening from 9 p. m. until after midnight. It ex- 
tended from the north in an arch to the south-west, 
and consisted of a dark segment, of a hazy or slaty 
appearance, surmounted by an arch of light, from 
which luminous streamers quivered and darted toward 
the zenith. 

April 4. — Clear and cool, with light breeze from the 
north-west. This morning, while half asleep, or in 
that dreamy state between sleeping and wakefulness, 
I heard a quick, sharp tread upon deck. The cabin 
doors were thrown open violently, and an intruder de- 
scended, without ceremony, and drew aside my state- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULE. 91 

room door, wishing me good morning. Looking up I 
discovered Mr. Hall, of Kickerton station, standing in 
the doorway, dressed in his travelling suit of deer- 
skins. The steward and boy were instantly called, 
and as soon as Hall could divest himself of his cloth- 
ing breakfast was served. He had started from the 
Kickertons the day before, but when about half-way 
to Annanatook he met with bad travelling — deep snow 
and water on the ice ; so that he was compelled to 
pass the night upon the floe. After breakfast Cap- 
tain Hall ordered his native driver to bring down a 
certain rubber water -bag, capable of holding three 
quarts of water. The native shortly appeared, hold- 
ing the bag in his hands, and, with a most woeful ex- 
pression on his face, he exclaimed : " As-se-a-wake ! 
as-se-a-wake ! " The bag was collapsed. I soon dis- 
covered that it was not water they had lost, but some- 
thing stronger, and, from its scarcity, considered more 
precious. 

There is no news of interest from below. They are 
preparing for the spring whaling. A fly made its ap- 
pearance in our cabin yesterday. I have seen nothing 
of it to-day. It probably ventured too near the cabin 
door and was singed by the cold air. 

Captain Hall tells me that quite a number of the 
men at Niantilic are clown with the scurvv. Es;-e-low 
arrived from Nep-e-ken's sealing grounds, bringing 
some few skins and a little meat. He reports good 



92 THE CRUISE OF THE FLOBENCE. 

sealing at their station. He returns to-morrow with 
provisions and tobacco. 

April 5. — Last evening the wind suddenly hauled 
to the south-east, and before midnight it was blowing 
hard, with heavy snow falling. Captain Hall had 
made preparations to start for home, but this morning 
he concluded to postpone his departure until the storm 
breaks. The wind having moderated along toward 
noon, Eg-e-low started on his return. The snow is very 
deep and, of course, travelling is difficult. One little 
snowbird, with white and dark plumage, was seen 
to-day. The Florence has on her bridal robes again 
to-day. She is covered with frost from deck to truck, 
and from a little distance presents a most beautiful 
appearance. She is often thus. I attribute it to the 
great quantity of water on the ice, which keeps the 
snow continually saturated and the air full of vapor, 
which settles and condenses on our rigging, giving the 
vessel a very picturesque appearance. 

It is quite warm. The thermometer showed plus 
24° at noon. 

April 6. — Cloudy, but warm and pleasant. Captain 
Hall left this mornine: at 4 o'clock. All hands were 
employed at cutting fresh-water ice. The Esquimaux 
were — all but three — off sealing as;ain. The three at 
home are laid up with sore eyes. The squaws are at 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 93 

work on skin-clothing; but they work very slow. The 
only. thing the Esquimaux are punctual in is their 
meals. Although they have no clocks, they never 
miss the time ; and when breakfast or dinner is ready 
they are there promptly for it. 

As soon as they are through with the spring sealing, 
I must either send or go myself to the Kickerton Isl- 
ands. I wish to get a large sleigh — one capable of 
carrying a whale-boat or large casks. I must get 
casks down to the whale which we captured last fall 
and try and save some blubber from the body ; also, 
if possible, get the jaw-bones for the north polar expe- 
dition. The whale is at present buried in the shore 
ice. It will be a difficult and tedious task to cut him 
out, but I think we will make the attempt. 

It is astonishing to see how fleshy the most of the 
jcrew have grown since leaving home. Certainly the 
Arctic regions must agree with them. My cabin boy — 
I am almost afraid to call him "bo} 7 " now — has in- 
creased in bulk from one hundred and sixteen to one 
hundred and sixty pounds ; and Mr. Burrows, the sec- 
ond officer, can scarcely see out of his eyes for fat; 
while some of the others are not far behind him. 

The temperature rose this afternoon to plus 32°, 
again threatening the Esquimaux' eglows with destruc- 
tion. This morning it was daylight at 3 o'clock. It 
gets dark about 9 p.m. I am glad that the dark sea- 
son has passed, for our kerosene is getting low. The 



94 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

crew and the squaws are on the ice this evening play- 
ing ball. Even the little children join in the game. 
All appear to be happy and free from care. The in- 
valids are improving rapidly, under the combined in- 
fluence of warm weather and seal-meat. 

April 7. — -Broken clouds ; warm and pleasant ; wind 
south-east. It is Sunday, and, of course, we do nothing 
to-day, or, at least, only what is absolutely necessary. 
The Esquimaux, however, do not cease their hunting. 
They have no Sunday ; therefore no day of worship. 
One of the squaws brought me a very fine deer-skin 
jacket this morning. I have considerable clothing 
made up, but not as much as I hope to get. My cabin 
boy and one of the foremast hands ventured out 
sealing this morning. They returned this evening 
thoroughly " beat out," Of course they had no seals. 

April 8. — It is a beautiful morning — one of the soft, 
balmy, sunshiny days that would be enjoyable at home 
and is delightful here. The snow is disappearing 
very fast, The snow embankment around the vessel, 
which was several feet" thick, has almost disappeared. 
The men begin to straighten up, and the kinks are 
fairly gone from some of their backs. It is remark- 
ably mild for this time of the year. We have no tire ; 
the cabin doors are open, and it is much pleasanter en 
deck than below. This is allowance day. Early this 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 95 

morning the squaws came off from the shore, accom- 
panied by the children and dogs. Several had young 
seals, just skinned, in their hands ; — these, I suppose, 
to better their chances for some warm coffee. The 
hunters yesterday got quite a number of young seals. 
To-day they are laid up with sore eyes. We were em- 
ployed most of the day in cleaning up the Florence 
and in making needed repairs. The thermometer 
showed plus 29° early this morning. 

April 9. — Wind blowing strong from the north- 
west. Last night the air was thick with light snow. 
The two natives who went sealing yesterday remained 
off all night. They returned this morning with four- 
teen seals. I have just sent one of the men to the 
shore for two young seals for breakfast. We consume 
from four to live daily. The meat is very sweet and 
is as tender as a spring chicken. It is not only very 
palatable, but it keeps the crew in good health. 

While it is fresh in my memory, I think I had bet- 
ter write, not what I know, but what I hear, of Lake 
Kennedy. This lake is supposed to be situated in lat- 
itude 66° north and longitude 73° west. It is so placed 
on the charts, but by whose authority I cannot say, as 
I have neither read nor heard of any white man hav- 
ing visited it until Captain John Eoach did so in the 
year 1876. He went there deer-hunting, in company 
with some Esquimaux, in the spring of that year. He 



96 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

went in the month of April, before the land had thrown 
off its winter coat, and before the sun had thawed the 
lake ice. I had often heard the Esquimaux speak of 
this great lake; of its abundance offish; of the great 
quantity of game which resorts there ; of their not be- 
ing able to see land from one shore toward the other; ■ 
of the land being entirely level, — in fact, a vast plain 
or prairie, stoneless and treeless, but covered in sum- 
mer with tall grass, in which the natives would secrete 
themselves and await the approach of their unsus- 
pecting prey, the reindeer. While thus secreted in 
the grass, the Esquimaux have shot down as many as 
twenty or thirty deer before the herd took alarm and 
lied. I have been more particular in my inquiries 
this time than heretofore concerning this lake, as I 
wished to get all the information possible about it. 
With this in view, I have heard Mr. Roach's story, 
although he was there at a time when everything was 
locked fast by the frost. He started with two sleighs, 
manned by Esquimaux. He was four days on the 
way between Kickerton and Kennedy Lake. He saw 
thousands of reindeer; went up a deep fiord just a 
short distance from Kater-nuna. On arriving at the 
head of the fiord he crossed a low, narrow neck of 
land, about a hundred yards in width, then entered on 
the lake ice ; followed the lake about fifteen miles or 
more; came to another narrow neck of land, about 
two hundred yards in breadth, which he crossed and 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 97 

entered on another lake ; followed this lake about 
thirty miles, then came to another narrow neck of land, 
which he also crossed and entered on Kennedy Lake. 
After leading the first, lake he lost sight of the moun- 
tains to the eastward, and to the westward neither hill 
nor mound broke the view as far as he could see. It was 
a vast snow-white and snow-covered prairie. Ken- 
nedy Lake and everything surrounding it were locked 
in ice. He discovered that the lake was dotted with 
hundreds of small islands, many of them not larger 
than an ordinary parlor floor. The Esquimaux visit 
this lake every spring for the purpose of hunting the 
reindeer, of which they get great numbers. Some re- 
main at or near the lake all winter, as did Eva, who 
was here a few days ago. They all have one story to 
tell of the vastness of this lake; of the abundance of 
game; of the large salmon and many other species of 
fish which inhabit its waters; and of the many seals 
of the netzik species which are found there. Among 
the game described I can make out three kinds of 
geese, many ducks, and other birds without number. 
The squaws destroy the young goslings as food for the 
dos;s. The land is entirely free from stones. Its soil 
is dark and abounds with fossils. One native tells me 
that last summer he was at the lake's western extrem- 
ity; that, looking to the westward, he could see no 
land — nothing but water; and he thought he saw a 
ship there. This lake empties into Fox Channel, or 
7 



98 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

what is called Dorchester Bay, all still unexplored. 
The Esquimaux carry their large and heavy boats 
from here to this lake. They have also carried the 
large and clumsy Scotch boats there. 

Considered from a scientific point of view, these 
lakes — I say "lakes," because there are three — open, 
a vast field to the explorer. In a pecuniary point of 
view, I believe it would pay to work it. There are 
fish, seal, birds, and deer. Hundreds upon hundreds 
of thousands of pounds of deer-meat, fish, eggs, feath- 
ers, and down could be preserved. Then there are 
oil from the seals, skin from the seals and deer, thou- 
sands of geese and ducks. All could be put up in cans 
there — at least those articles suitable for preservation 
in this way — and easily sent to salt water, and thence 
home to the markets. Where is the Yankee who will 
undertake this enterprise ? I believe there is a mine 
of wealth there. If I could spare time I would visit 
this lake — or, rather, these lakes — now. To explore 
them, and others probably adjacent, would require a 
whole summer. The natural resources of the section 
can only be ascertained by systematic and careful 
exploration. 

April 10. — Yesterday afternoon and last night the 
north-west wind blew very strong, with heavy snow- 
drift. The thermometer fell from plus 19° to minus 
5°. This morning the weather is better, but still a 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 99 

good breeze prevails,' and it is quite cold. An aurora 
was seen last night about midnight. Some of the 
Esquimaux are laid up with ophthalmia. Since the 
squaws received their allowance, on Monday, I have 
not seen one at the schooner; but I fear we will have 
a storm of them here to-day. They are fond of hot 
coffee and mush, and are as vain and proud of a calico 
skirt as their favored sisters of a more genial clime 
would be of silks and satins. 

April 11. — Clear and tine weather. Early this morn- 
ing the thermometer indicated 2°. The Esquimaux, 
having partly recovered from snow-blindness, are off 
sealing. Mr. Kumlein has gone with them to try his 
luck. The native Eva and his wife arrived last night 
from Gloucester Island, bringing me five young seals- 
and a promise of more as soon as he gets them. The 
late gale and low temperature have improved the trav- 
elling somewhat. The native who was in pursuit of his 
runaway wife, (Neleanger,) and who has been loitering 
around here in hope, I suppose, that she would return 
to his dirty, dusky, and greasy embrace, departed to- 
day in despair. The wife has lied to her uncle for 
protection. Although, the thermometer stands in the 
middle of the day at or in the vicinity of zero, the side 
of the vessel that receives the sun's rays will almost 
burn the hand. The Esquimaux, when in pursuit of 
seals this time of the year, are careful, on killing one, 



100 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

to cover it well with snow before they go in pursuit 
of more. Should they neglect to do this, and leave 
the seal uncovered for a short time, the hair on the 
side exposed to the sun's rays will come off as easily 
as the hair of a scalded hog. The effect of the sun 
on the human skin is to turn it black or very dark, 
very often removing the cuticle or scarfskin, unless 
the face be well protected with a shade. 

We are employed to-day at getting out some pro- 
vision from the hold for use. Mr. Sisson is putting 
bone shoeing on the small boat. We shoe the keels 
of our boats with bone from the jaws of the whale, so 
as to make them easy to haul over the ice. Very soon, 
now, we will have the long Arctic day, — continual 
daylight ; no night, no stars. One will scarcely know 
when to go to rest, but I have a solution for that prob- 
lem — if, indeed, it should prove one : I shall go to bed 
when I need rest. This is a land of extremes, — either 
all dark or all light; all cold or all warm; very bad 
or very good weather. 

I have just had five young seals, skinned and ready 
to cook, brought aboard. They will do for two meals 
for all* hands. By this it will be seen that the white 
man has but little to boast of, in the way of eating 
meat, over his brother Esquimaux. I think, of the two, 
the white man is the most voracious. 

April 12.-— Cloudy and warm. Thermometer regis- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 101 

tered plus 32° this morning. We have another warm 
spell upon us. It is very evident that below us the 
winds are to the southward. 

I get the information from Eva, who was here yes- 
terday, that Capt. Murray's steamer Windward, which 
wintered at Mantilic or at Harrison's Point, a cape 
which extends some five miles out from the main har- 
bor, is now at Is ew Norvion, a cape some twenty miles 
to the north of Niaiitilic. The crews of the four ships 
which wintered at this exposed point for the purpose 
of getting out early in the spring, should the water 
extend up the gulf at that time, commenced to saw 
out in the warm weather which we had the latter part 
of March, the water being then only about one hun- 
dred yards from the vessels. I understand that Cap- 
tain Murray, on getting his vessel out of her winter 
quarters, discovered that the long continuation of 
southerly winds had brought the Davis Strait pack-ice 
into the gulf, and, to prevent his ship from being clos- 
ed in by it, he steamed up to the head of the water 
which is at New Norvion. Should the south winds 
continue, even this will not save him from being in- 
closed in the pack; for it will surely come up, unless 
there is a long spell of north-west wind. I regret very 
much to hear that the Davis Strait pack-ice found its 
way into the gulf, as, once getting fairly lodged there," 
it is liable to remain all summer, and mav make it 



102 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

very difficult for me to get out in time to join the 
polar expedition. 

The Esquimaux captured a few seals yesterday. 
Mr. Kumlein did not get any. I do not think he will 
go immediately on another seal-hunt with the Esqui- 
maux. They cover too much ground in a day for an 
ordinary traveller to compass. They are always trav- 
elling, either in the mountains deer-hunting, or over 
the snow-clad floes in winter hunting the seal or polar 
bear. They are light, strong, and muscular, and are 
therefore better fitted to travel the snow and ice fields' 
than their more unwieldy white brethren. They have, 
also, another advantage. When tired or fatigued they 
will lie down on the ice and go to sleep ; when hungry 
the} 7 will open a seal, if they have captured one, drink 
a portion of its blood, and eat as much of the meat or 
entrails as they want; and thus their strength is re- 
stored. I do not say that a white man could not get 
along just as well if accustomed to such a life ; but he 
is not accustomed, and, so far as I am concerned, I do 
not want to be. 

All hands, except the scientists, were engaged to- 
day breaking out the hold of the Florence and getting 
things to rights generally. Nep-e-ken arrived this 
evening, bringing some seal-meat and one young seal. 
He has taken quite a number, but did not bring them 
down. He brought his little boy As-see-wer, who is 
named "Boatswain" by the sailors, and who is very 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 103 

fond of pork. It has been very warm to-day, the ther- 
mometer going up as high as plus 34°. Nep-e-ken 
tells me that his boy As-see-wer, who cannot be more 
than five years of age, has caught six young seals this 
spring, and that he successfully hunted them last spring 
also. I know that he can chew and smoke equal to 
an old tar. They commence young in this country. 
I have* seen some of the little girls, not older than 
this boy, chewing and smoking tobacco. Such things 
show the kind of missionary work that has been. done 
among these people. 

April 13. — Cloudy; light, variable winds, with high 
barometer. Thermometer plus 9°. Nep-e-ken left 
early this morning for his sealing station. Two sleighs 
arrived from Kickerton Island late last evening. The 
party consisted of. five persons, men and squaws. The 
Esquimaux were not very successful in yesterday's 
hunting. Nearly all of them are laid up to-day with 
snow-blindness. The natives who arrived last night 
bring no news of interest, except that there is a scar- 
city of seals below and that the Esquimaux are scat- 
tering to different parts of the gulf in search of them. 
Everything is going on in a dreary, monotonous uni- 
formity; no hair-breadth escapes; no combats with the 
polar bear. The weather is at times remarkably fine. 
I do not think that any climate in the world is supe- 
rior to that of the Arctic regions in the months of 



104 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

April, May, and June. This evening all Nature lies 
here in quiet repose, like Innocence asleep. 

April 14. — It is really a beautiful clay. The sun has 
a peculiar silver} 7 whiteness, like a burnished silver 
mirror. Not a cloud is to be seen in the heavens. 
According to meteorological theory and the laws of 
storms, we have several days been at the outer limit 
of a great storm. The light, variable winds, the very 
fine weather, and the extra-hiffh barometer all signify 
this. 

Roach's Esquimaux left this morning, "homeward 
bound." How pleasant the sound of those words! 
But how much more pleasant will it be to realize that 
we are homeward bound in reality ! 

Many of the Esquimaux who have recovered from 
their eye-sickness have gone sealing. to-day. Some of 
the men whose eyes are not affected by the brightness 
of the sun reflected from the snow-covered mountains 
and ice, are off for a quiet stroll over the floe or on 
the land. Kim- mock -kone arrived this afternoon, 
from his and Inue-mar-ket's sealing station. He came 
on foot, and thinks of returning to-morrow. He in- 
forms me that they have quite a number of young 
seals, but I cannot ascertain the number, as few of the 
Esquimaux can count beyond six. Nep-e-ken man- 
aged to tell me, when he was here, that he had taken 
as many as twelve in a day. He conveyed the number 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 105 

by holding up his fingers. I hope to get a number of 
these young seal-skins, as they make excellent clothing ; 
but it takes so many to supply them and their families 
that I do not know how I shall succeed. 

April 15. — Clear and cold; light breeze from the 
north-west. Barometer still very high ; thermometer 
minus 3° last night. Since removing the embank- 
ment from around the vessel we find it quite cold, 
particularly at night, when there is a breeze from the 
north or west. It was so wasted by the recent warm 
w r eather that I thought it best to have it and the dirt 
which necessarily accumulated removed. Since the 
removal of the embankment, if the temperature falls 
to zero and a light breeze prevails, it wull freeze quite 
hard in the cabin at night when the fires are out. That 
is the ease about every night now, as we cannot afford 
to be too free with our fuel, which is getting low. 

There was an aurora last night about midnight. I 
did not see it, but Mr. Sherman considered it very in- 
teresting, from the fact of its hanging over and appa- 
rent!}' emerging from some water holes, which are kept 
open by the current, to the eastward of the Florence. 
The vessel lies with her head to the north and west, 
so as to take the winter storms head and stern, as they 
generally prevail from the north-west and south-east. 
By dropping the squaresails we make quite a shelter, 
when the wind is from the western quarter, for those 



106 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

who are at work on deck. Under this shelter Mr. Sis- 
son is now at work putting a bone shoeing on the keel 
of the small boat, as before mentioned. Mr. Burrows 
is replenishing our supply of fresh-water ice from the 
ponds on the land. We do not use snow water. I 
consider it injurious to health. 

* Not a cloud to be seen again to-day. The heavens 
have a pale, bluish color, and the sun is very bright 
and white. Eva has just arrived. from the Gloucester 
Islands. He brought me a live seal, but the poor lit- 
tle fellow was badly bitten by one of the dogs when 
he was captured. It is allowance clay again, and we 
have been harassed all day by the squaws, clamoring 
for their weekly provender. 

The Esquimaux have a peculiar way of designat- 
ing or noting distances. For instance, "cou-e-took" 
means but a short distance, — it may be one hundred 
yards or ten miles; "coning-twadle" means such a 
distance that one does not want to undertake the jour- 
ney without steam and good weather; "wes-er-pook" 
means such a distance that one was never known to get 
to his journey's end; " wes-er-twadle" means such a 
distance that it is utterly impossible for a man to get 
there in his short span of life. 

April 16. — Fine weather. Barometer still high ; 
thermometer last night minus 3°. Beautiful cirro- 
stratus clouds to-day. The cirro-stratus is markedly 



WINTEK IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 107 

a precursor of storms, and from its greater or less 
abundance and permanence it gives some indication 
of the time when the storm may he expected. A very 
brilliant aurora was visible last night, extending from 
the north-east to the south-west. 

My little seal is dead. It died last night about mid- 
night. The poor little thing w r as wounded more dan- 
gerously than I thought at first. It moaned like a child 
in pain, and would look up, with its great round black 
eyes, as if imploring relief from its sufferings. I re- 
ceived another live one to-day, however. He is a 
white-coat, or this spring's seal, probably about fifteen 
days old. He is as ugly and as savage as a young dog, 
and will bite at any and every thing within his reach. 
He is now on deck sunning himself. 

Traded for seven young seals to-day, brought by a 
native from Molly Kater-nuna. They are just as they 
were when taken, so I have the skins as well as the 
meat. Mr. Kumlein is making a drawing of the young 
seal that died. Nearly all the Esquimaux were off 
hunting yesterday. Last night they brought back 
quite a number of young seals. As I have no goggles 
to give them, they fall back on their primitive spec- 
tacles. They are made of wood, fitted to the shape of 
the nose, or at least that part of the face where the 
spectacles will bear. There are two slits for the eyes, 
with a little shelf projecting over them. They are se- 
cured to the head by a seal thong. This contrivance 



108 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

protects the eyes somewhat, but does not always save 
them from snow-blindness. 

April 17. — Clear weather. Not a cloud to be seen. 
The wind is blowing quite strong, with a high barom- 
eter and wind north-west. There is so much wind 
that the Esquimaux did not go sealing to-day. The 
moon fulled yesterday, with the wind north-west, where 
I suppose it will remain the greater part of this moon. 
A fine aurora appeared last night, its arch extending to 
and across the moon's disk, although the moon was very 
bright at that time. My second seal died last night, 
from what cause I know not; it appeared strong and 
well. Excepting two of the crew — the one with the 
sore hand and Lee with his frozen foot — we have not 
had a case of sickness since leaving home. 

April 18. — We are getting our boats from shore to- 
day. It is- my intention to have them fitted for whaling, 
so that at the time we are released from winter quar- 
ters — which I hope and expect will be as soon as the 
15th of July — we will be ready to take a wdiale, should 
we be fortunate enough to see one. If the ice does not 
form a most serious obstruction, I hope to arrive on 
the coast of Greenland by the 3d or 6th of August. 
I am verv anxious to 2ret one more whale before we 
leave. 

It is a very fine, warm day, with light, variable 






WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 109 

winds. The Esquimaux are off on the hunt to-day. 
Every morning I dispatch the cabin boy, Charles Ful- 
ler, ( who, a light delicate youth eight months ago, now 
weighs, I should think, 170 pounds,) to the shore for 
our daily allowance of meat. He generally brings 
four, and sometimes live seals. These are for one 
day's feeding. He has a small hand sleigh to bring 
them on, and every morning regularly this poor, dear 
little 170-pounder can be seen wending his way to the 
shore for seal-meat. He is young, only eighteen, and 
is as round-faced as the full moon ; therefore a great 
favorite with the dusky damsels, and will get seal- 
meat where others might fail. 

April 19.— Fine weather. Last night we had a light 
fall of snow. A sleigh arrived this morning from 
Kater-nuna. It brought no trade, except two small 
seal-skins. The Esquimaux are getting but few skins 
now. The young seals are getting old enough to take 
to the water, and many, therefore, escape. Pumped 
the bilge-water out of the schooner to-day. In the 
lower part of the hold the water did not freeze through 
the winter. Had we not had a heavy bank of snow 
around the vessel — which, of course, excluded the cold 
air and prevented the warmth generated by the tires 
from escaping — such would not have been the case. 

The thermometer went up to plus 32° yesterday, but 
soon fell again. This morning it is plus 14°. All 



110 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

hands employed at general ship duty. Mr. Sisson is 
coopering barrels and casks. Mr. Burrows and men 
are coiling whale-lines and preparing whale -gear. T 
was somewhat surprised at the appearance of Two- 
poung this morning. This is the squaw who recently 
ran away from her husband. She is here again, and 
I scarcely know what to do with her, unless I set her 
to work making clothing; that will help pay for her 
board. Kim-mock-kone arrived to-day, bringing some 
seal-meat. He returns to-morrow with a reinforce- 
ment of dogs, so as to bring the natives back, as the 
young sealing is about over. Very soon I may expect 
my large family ail collected around the schooner. 

Oc-a-took and wife left for Molly Kater-nuna this 
afternoon, to be gone some clays, on a visit to his 
mother. This is a young, strong, and intelligent Es- 
quimaux. I wish sincerely that I could persuade him 
to accompany me to the east coast of Greenland, but 
I cannot, on account of his mother, who does not want 
him to go. 

April 20. — Light snow, with light southerly winds. 
Kim-mock-kone left early this morning. The ther- 
mometer fell last night to plus 3°. The natives have 
no dogs, and, it being bad weather, they are not seal- 
ing. 

April 21. — Cloudy; light breeze from the south- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. Ill 

east; spittings of snow. It is Sunday. We are doing 
no work to-day. Some of the natives are off sealing. 
Inue-mar-ket, who arrived yesterday from his sealing 
station, was unable to bring all of his seals. He has 
gone after them to-day. A sleigh arrived from Molly 
Ivater-nuna last evening. The weather is very warm 
for this time of the season ; plus 18° this morning. It 
is thawing on deck, where the cold air does not reach. 
I have been trying again to persuade some of the Es- 
quimaux to accompany me to the coast of Greenland, 
and they promise to do so. We shall see. My " meat 
cart" has just arrived, bringing our daily allowance of 
meat. It returns to the shore laden with seal-skulls 
for Mr. Kumlein, the naturalist. 

April 22. — Strong breeze from the south-east, with 
snow. The Esquimaux are not sealing, on account of 
the bad weather, but have gone with a team to bring 
in some seals, buried in the ice, which they captured 
some time ago. They often, when hunting, kill more 
seals than they are able to bring back on the sleigh, 
particularly when their dogs are scarce. Some of the 
Esquimaux only possess one dog; others two or three. 
If one is the proprietor of half a dozen he is considered 
rich. We broke out a cask of bread, this morning, 
and were very much surprised and disappointed to 
find it only partly full. The cask contained whale- 
line, flags, and bread, and had not more than one' hun- 



112 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

dred pounds of the latter; whereas had it been full, 
as I supposed, there would have been nearly four hun- 
dred pounds. This is the squaws' allowance day. It 
reminds me of wash day at home. 

April 23. — Clear and sunshiny. Were employed 
to-day at ship duty. Oc-a-took returned last night 
from Kater-nuna. Inue-mar-ket has gone with a team 
of dogs to assist Nep-e-ken in bringing his family 
and the seals he has caught to the schooner. Only 
two of the natives are sealing to-day. Ar-but, one of 
the natives belonging to the brig Alert, Captain Wat- 
son, came here to-dav. He has been engaged at vouns: 
sealing in this vicinity during the last month. A few 
days ago he unfortunately cut off the end of his third 
finger. He came here to have it doctored. He brought 
six young seal, skins and all, as a fee. I have got the 
seals and he has departed satisfied. 

April 24. — Cloudy, but pleasant and warm weather; 
light north-east wind. We were employed to-day at 
repairing the vessel. Most of the Esquimaux are out 
sealing. 

April 25. — Clear and fine. Light breeze from the 
north-east. This has been a warm spring, and an 
exceptional one. I was employed to-day doing some 
little carpenter work around the Florence, repairing 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 113 

stea ring-gear, &c. Nep-e-ken returned last evening 
from his young-sealing expedition. He has been very 
successful. This morning I got quite a number of seals 
from him, and have set the squaws at work skinning 
and drying them. They are drying in the sun, the 
only curing process they undergo. We have now no 
night proper. It is dusky at midnight, or what we 
would call midnight if it was dark. Last night at 12 
o'clock it was light enough to see to read large print. 
"We have had a regular storm of Esquimaux this after- 
noon at dinner. Xone of the men are sealing to-day. 
They are faking a holiday, I suppose, to commemorate 
their success in the young sealing. Men, squaws, and 
children to the number of twenty-two were here at 
dinner, — quite a large family. They dine, of course, 
after we are through. The elite come first here as well 
as elsewhere, — they have the best ; then the ordinary 
follow, — they have second best; then the squaws and 
children, and they have third best, which amounts to 
little. The sun has a hazy appearance this evening, 
which portends a storm, I fear. 

April 26. — Cloudy; light breeze from the westward, 
accompanied by snow. Last evening the wind hauled 
to the south-east, and some little snow fell through the 
night. This morning the wind is as above, but I think 
it is onlv a local breeze, as the weather is too warm 



114 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

for westerly winds. Water is running on the schoon- 
er's deck. The Esquimaux are housed. 

April 27. — We have a strong breeze to-day from 
the north-west, with severe squalls. We were em- 
ployed in getting ice for drinking purposes. Eg-e-low 
returned last evening from young sealing. He brought 
many seals. The natives are all here now, to the num- 
ber of twenty-five — men, women, and children. Our 
bread disappears very fast. All opportunities for 
spring whaling have been lost through my desire to 
keep the Esquimaux away from the influences of those 
who are inimical to the undertaking. I have another 
one of my crew partly laid up. The cabin boy, I fear, 
is threatened with a felon on one of his lingers. We 
can laugh at the scurvy, but sore fingers abound. 

April 28. — We have a strong and cold wind from 
the north. The sun occasionally shines, but the weather 
is in the main cloudy. Thermometer fell to minus 7° 
last night, if one may call all daylight night. It is 
Sunday. The cleaning and drying of skins go on as 
fast as the weather will permit. I received twenty 
young seals from Inue-mar-ket this morning. 

April 29. — It is clear, with a strong breeze from the 
north-west. Thermometer last night minus 1°. The 
wind makes it very unpleasant. It feels almost as 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 115 

cold as when minus 40°. Allowance day. Two fami- 
lies are about to start on a visit to Kiantilic to see 
their friends. It was light enough last night when the 
sun was making the circumpolar circuit to read at 
midnight. 

April 30. — April has taken its departure in rather 
a rough manner. It is snowing quite fast, and the 
temperature being high enough to thaw the snow as 
it comes in contact with the skin or with clothing, of 
course it is very unpleasant. None of the Esquimaux 
are hunting, and they have postponed their contem- 
plated journey to Mantilic. I was prepared to send 
a sleigh to Kickerton Island, but that, too, must be 
postponed on account of the weather. The time drags 
heavily and wearily. I could be in a manner content 
if I were only sure of success. I lie down nights and 
think, and then, falling asleep, dream of what should 
be done to insure success; but all amounts to a head- 
ache in the end. 

May 1. — It has been a beautiful day, the sun shining 
brightly and the wind blowing slightly from the north- 
west, with a cloudless sky. Yesterday afternoon the 
wind hauled to the west and snow ceased falling. 
Through the night the wind blew quite strong; at its 
maximum, about thirty miles an hour. It was quite 
cold also, minus 5°; but this, the first of May, is 



116 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

splendid, with its warm sun and light wind. We 
commenced on our next to the last cask of coal to- 
day. We have enough to last, probably, six weeks. 

Nep-e-ken and family and Mr. Kumlein started for 
the Ivickertons this morning. I have written to Captain 
Roach, of that station, to send me up a large sleigh — . 
one that is capable of carrying a heavy cask. I shall 
try to save some of the blubber of the whale killed 
last fall. We had an increase in our family last night. 
Polly, (Kim-ik-pak-jic,) wife of Ete-tun, was delivered 
of a male child in the night. Both mother and child, 
I believe, are doing well. This will prevent their 
going to Niantilic, as they contemplated. Inue-mar- 
ket and family and Chummy have gone, however. 

May 2. — Fine weather; clear and cold. The ther- 
mometer fell last night to minus 9°. The wind is 
from the north'-west. It is bright and sunshiny. Em- 
ployed at setting up a cask. None of the Esquimaux 
out sealing to-day, I suppose, on account of some 
superstitious notion. The mother and the late addi- 
tion to the ship's company are doing well. The season 
is more backward than I anticipated. Everything is 
as yet covered with its winter coat of snow. It will 
be a relief to see once more the bare rocks and the 
bine sea. Mr. Sherman is making preparations to 
observe the transit of Mercury across the sun, which 
occurs May, 6, 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 117 

May -3. — Fair weather, but nothing to boast of. 
Cirrus clouds, denoting wind. Strong wind yesterday 
afternoon from west and south-west. The thermom- 
eter did not fall to zero; plus 9° was the lowest point 
reached. A few of the Esquimaux went sealing this 
morning. Of course we have but a few dogs to work 
with, as the travellers to Kickerton and Mantilic car- 
ried off all but six, and one of them I have on board, 
she having given birth to young last night. I hope to 
save these pups, as they will be excellent dogs to carry 
on the expedition. We stilt keep up the system of 
two meals a day. We are compelled to do so on 
account of the growing scarcity of both food and fuel. 
We have plenty of meat, but bread must be used with 
economy. 

May 4. — Cloudy, warm weather. A light, variable 
wind prevails. Inue-mar-ket returned, last night. He 
did not go any farther than Kater-nuna. Chummy 
continued on to Mantilic. The Esquimaux returned 
last night, bringing four seals, the spoil of the day's 
hunt. They are not off to-day, the most of them 
being troubled with ophthalmia. I lost three of- my 
young puppies last night. I suppose they got chilled 
with cold through the neglect of the mother. The re- 
maining four are doing well. Employed to-day over- 
hauling all the schooner's gear. We find it in rather 
a bad condition. The two men with sore hands and 



118 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

the one with sore foot are convalescing slowly. I con- 
sider the saving of Lee's foot next to miraculous. 

Ete-tun-winger, husband of Kim-ik-pak-jic, came 
to me this morning and wished me to give him some 
bread for his wife. I gave it to him. He stood a few 
moments and very delicately hinted that Polly — we 
always call her "Polly" — would like a little butter 
(aksunk) to eat with her bread. I gave him a little 
butter, but it was evident that his errand was not fin- 
ished. He was fidgety. In a few moments he hauled 
out one of the cast-away pepper-boxes of the steward's 
and requested me to give him a small quantity of sugar 
for his wife. I gave it to him. The poor squaw must 
suffer a great deal from the effects of her late confine- 
ment. It is very evident, however, that they are get- 
ting civilized fast. 

At noon to-day, the sun being out and quite bright, 
I concluded to try the thermometer in the sun's rays 
alongside of the schooner. For that purpose I hung 
it on the port side of the vessel, suspending it by a 
string, the instrument being in its box, the box leaning 
against the black-painted side of the schooner and ele- 
vated four feet from the ice. It rose to plus 73°. I then 
placed the thermometer on the other side of the vessel, 
in the shade, and in about the same position in regard 
to the ice. It fell to plus 35°— a difference of 38°. I 
then buried the thermometer, it being in the box, one 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 110 

foot deep in the snow. It fell to plus 28°. On shore 
Mr. Sherman's thermometer read at noon plus 24°, 

May 5. — We have a bright and beautiful day. 
Scarcely a cloud is to be seen. Although we have 
generally fine and warm days, we have also cool 
nights. We call it " night," from habit, though it be 
not dark. The sun gives us but very little heat when 
low in the northern horizon. Last night the thermom- 
eter fell to plus -5°. This morning shortly after sunrise 
it read plus 20°. Chummy arrived last night from 
the south. Tes-e-wane and his wife also came from 
Mantilic, bringing me a few skins. I left a quan- 
tity of trade with him last fall for the purpose of 
procuring skins. This is the second time he has sent 
me some. 

The vessels that wintered at Mantilic succeeded in 
getting into the water in the latter part of March or 
the fore part of April, and they are now at the. floe 
edge. As yet they have not taken any whales. One 
of them — the steamer — is frozen in the floe nearly in 
the centre of the gulf. 

It is Sunday. Everything is quiet. Some of the 
men are taking a stroll on the ice; others on the shore. 
Some few of the Esquimaux are off sealing. Mr. 
Kumlein and Kep-e-ken, with all the party who went 
to the Kickertons, arrived here •this evening. They 
had not as good travelling as they anticipated. They 



120 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

were twenty-three hours in reaching there. They 
staid there one day and then started on their return. 
They were forced to sleep on the ice last night. 
Captain Roach has sent me a large sleigh; also some 
flags to nag casks with. Captain Hall sent me a 
line lot of coffee mugs or drink cups ; also a crow- 
bar, of which we were in need. They are anxious- 
ly looking for whales, but as yet have seen none. 
All the vessels, I understand, have been frozen in the 
young ice in and about the centre of the gulf. Only 
two have succeeded in getting out of it. 

Mr. Kumlein's expedition to the Kickertons was 
not void of ffood, as he was fortunate in collecting 
some rare specimens. Among the collection wss one 
fine large bear's head, skeletons of the netzik seal and 
oog-jook, and some fossil remains of marine animals 
from Kennedy Lake. As it is not generally known, 

I will here mention that the vounff of the bearded 

t/ ~ 

seal— or "oog-jook," as the Esquimaux call it — sheds 
its coat of dark-blue hair before birth. 

May 6. — The sun was clear and bright this morning. 
Shortly after sunrise, however, a light breeze,, sprang 
up from the north-east, bringing w T ith it a damp fog. 
The only instrument Mr. Sherman had for observing 
the transit of Mercury was a three-inch terrestrial tel- 
escope. We were employed to-day setting up rigging. 
The work progresses very slowly, and it is quite warm. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. . 121 

Owing to the warm air and the fog combined the snow 
is disappearing rapidly. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon 
the fog became dense, and has undoubtedly interrupt- 
ed Mr. Sherman's observations. He saw the greater 
portion of the transit, however. This has been allow- 
ance, or squaw's day. 

May 7. — Cloud}', with some little haze; the sun, 
however, shining occasionally. A bright parhelion was 
observed this* morning ; also cirrus clouds. So we 
may look for a storm soon. A sleigh arrived from 
Kater-nuna, bringing me seventy skins of young seals, 
which I traded for. Most of the Esquimaux are seal- 
ing to day. Tes-e-wane started on his return to the 
south, and I am not sorry; for not only are the Esqui- 
maux a great deal of trouble, but so many dogs around 
the schooner make the night hideous. Employed to-day 
in getting fresh-water ice, coopering casks, and repair- 
ing sails. 

May 8. — Hazy, warm weather. Thermometer plus 
46°. The ice is, of course, wasting very fast under the 
combined influences of heat and currents. Here at 
Annanatook the current is very strong, and I expect 
the Florence will be afloat long before the gulf ice 
will allow us to depart from the harbor. It will need 
some care to preveut her from being shoved on shore 
by these floating masses of ice. We are preparing to 



122 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

go to the whale and try to save some of the blubber. 
Of course in this matter we have to depend upon the 
Esquimaux for help. If it was not for them I could 
do nothing with the whale ; in fact, I could accomplish 
but very little here in any matter without their aid. 
Thej' returned late last night from sealing, bringing 
some half-dozen seals. They are preparing to vacate 
their snow idaus, which have sheltered them during 
the winter, and betake themselves to their skin huts 
or " tapigs " — their summer residences. 

May 9. — Cloudy and foggy. It has evidently been 
storming during the last three days around and near 
us, but, excepting a light fall of snow and a heavy fog 
which hangs around and over the land, we have not felt 
or seen any of its effects. Thermometer yesterday plus 
48°; this morning plus 36°; last night it did not fall 
below 27°. The burgomaster -gulls have made their 
appearance. So, too, the little snowbirds. They have 
been, to the south of us, near and about the water for 
the last month. Many clucks are swimming near the 
floe edge. Everything has a lively and spring-like ap- 
pearance. The wind is from the south. It looks dark 
and heavy down the gulf. Some few of the Esquimaux 
are sealing; others are busy getting their tapigs or 
summer huts ready. The warm weather has likewise 
destroyed the snow covering of the observatory, and 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 128 

its occupants have to rely upon the bare canvas for 
shelter. 

May 10. — The weather still remains thick; snow, 
fog, and southerly wind. It is so warm, however, that 
the snow melts about as fast as it falls. The weather 
is bad for drying skins, and little progress is made in 
that direction. It is a bad time for the Esquimaux, 
as they are continually kept wet by the falling and 
melting snow, which keeps their tapigs in a dirty and 
wretched condition. They brought some few seals last 
night or this morning; for they were gone until morn- 
ing. Cracks are opening in the ice. Here and there, 
too, are some little pools of water. For several hours 
this afternoon a heavy rain fell, and during the con- 
tinuance of the storm there was scarcely a dry spot to 
be found in the vessel's cabin. The cold, dry, frosty 
weather of winter has so shrunken the wood-work that 
water is free to enter. . I can call to mind but one 
rain-storm in my experience in the Arctic regions in 
the month of May, and that, I think, w T as in 1861. 
We have washed decks all day, the first time in 1878. 

May 11. — Still cloudy and thick. Rain fell the 
entire night. We had a strong breeze from the south 
last night, which has moderated to-day. I sent two 
sleighs, carrying seven casks, down to the whale. If 



124 THE CRUISE OF THE FLOFENCE. 

the weather is favorable the Esquimaux will follow 
to-morrow. 



Mav 12. — Wind still strong from the south-east. 
Some little rain fell last evening. The Esquimaux 
returned with the two sleighs at 11 p. m. It is Sunday. 
All quiet. 

May 13. — Heavy southerly wind. I dispatched one 
sleigh-load of casks to the whale this morning. Esqui- 
maux off sealing yesterday. They brought back a few 
seals. Four of them have not returned yet. It is 
quite warm, and the ice is wasting fast. Many gulls 
and clucks were seen to-day. They are on their way 
to the holes cut through the ice by the currents in 
this vicinity. If this southerly wind continues much 
longer I fear the pack-ice of Davis's Strait will enter 
the gulf. 

May 14. — Somewhat foggy this morning, but as the 
sun gained strength the fog disappeared, and it is now 
warm and sunny. Kim-mock-kone returned at mid- 
night from carrying casks to the whale. Al-o-kee 
started this morning for the Kickertons to procure a 
wife. This native promises to go to the East Land, or 
coast of Greenland, to join the expedition there. He 
is desirous of a wife before he starts. I shall be com- 
pelled to wait until he returns before I can send down 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 125 

to'the whale, on account of the scarcity of clogs. We 
were employed to-day painting boats, coopering casks, 
&c. 

May 15. — Weather somewhat thick; wind south- 
east; snow this morning. The weather is very warm, 
even when the sun is low; at night ice scarcely makes. 
This warm, sultry weather prevents the drying and 
curing of skins, and I much fear we shall lose many 
from that cause'. I to-day dispatched a sleigh with a 
load of casks to the whale. 

May 16. — The weather is fine and warm, with light 
southerly wind. The sun is extremely hot, and this, 
of course, denotes more southerly or easterly weather, 
Nep-e-ken, my namesake, has started with all the male 
Esquimaux — to the number of ten — down to the 
whale. If it is not possible to cut up the carcass, they 
will seal a few days. All the squaws are busy making 
tapigs and cleaning and drying skins. We are em- 
ployed to-day coopering casks, painting the boats, and 
drying the skin-clothing, which latter had been some- 
what damp. 

May 17. — Cloudy; southerly wind, with snow. The 
remarkably warm weather has brought forth new 
grass. Some flowers are also making their appear- 
ance on the southern exposures. Flies are abundant. 



126 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

Snow disappears as fast as it falls. We are on bur 
last cask of coal. It now contains about one-third of 
a ton. Mr. Kumlein's forefinger of the left hand is 
quite sore. This makes the third man in the crew so 
afflicted. One of the three came very near losing the 
use of his hand for life, and I greatly fear he will lose 
the use of one finger, notwithstanding all the care that 
has been bestowed upon him. 

May 18. — Sky overcast ; weather quite warm ; light 
airs from the west. We had a little hail last evening. 
Al-o-kee returned last night from his search after a 
wife. He did not succeed in finding one. This morn- 
ing he started for the whale, to join his brother Esqui- 
maux. No news of interest from the Kickertons. We 
have some half-dozen barrels of seal blubber, collected 
from the Esquimaux. We were employed to-day get- 
ing fresh-water ice from the land, making a water 
butt, &c. 

May 19. — Sky still overcast. Yesterday, toward 
evening, the westerly wind increased to a moderate 
gale, accompanied at times by snow. Through the 
night the thermometer fell to plus 18°. It is a warm 
day and we have southerly wind. I hear nothing from 
Nep-e-ken and his party. His wife (O-cas-e-ak-ju) 
sent for me last night to attend her little son, who 
was taken suddenly ill. I found him in a high fever. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 127 

He had probably taken cold playing in the damp snow. 
He is somewhat better this morning. It is Sunday, 
and no work, of course, is going on. The men cleaned 
themselves up a little and took a stroll. 

May 20. — Yesterday the southerly wind gradually 
increased until night, when it culminated in a gale. 
We had all varieties of weather — rain, hail, snow, and 
sleet- — until 3 o' clock this morning, when the wind sud- 
denly hauled to the west, where it is now. Snow con- 
tinues to fall and water is making fast. The currents 
and almost unprecedented warm weather are doing 
their work of destruction, and its results are visible 
from hour to hour. It is now unsafe to venture on 
the ice on the port side of the vessel, it is so wasted. 
Holes miles in extent have formed to the north and 
west. The ice on the south, or down the gulf, is as 
yet firm and strong. In a few days all the ice in the 
head of the gulf will be wasted away, leaving, how- 
ever, miles of it still firmly adhering to the land be- 
low us. 

Eva, accompanied by another native and his squaw, 
came from Kater-nuna last night. They had consid- 
erable difficulty in getting here on account of the 
wasted condition of the ice. Eva brought me only 
three skins. The travelling has been so bad that he 
{'ailed to get the skins which he had cached near Ken- 
nedy Lake. The other native brought me sixteen 



128 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

skins of young seals and one deer-skin. These twenty, 
skins I consider worth a hundred dollars to the expe- 
dition. The two Esquimaux have heard somewhere 
that the Davis Strait pack-ice is in the gulf. I hope 
the rumor will prove untrue. It is quite cool again 
this evening. Thermometer plus 20°. 

May 21. — Quite clear and cold. The thermometer 
fell last night to plus 15°. It read plus 20° this morn- 
ing. We have a strong breeze from the north-west, 
and every evidence of more wind. If it does no other 
good, I sincerely hope it will clear the gulf of pack- 
ice. The flies, which were so abundant a few days 
ago, have disappeared, the cold snap having killed 
them. 

At 5 o'clock p. m. Nep-e-ken and his party, all but 
two, returned from the whale. Oc-a-took and Pe-ker 
went to get some deer-meat which they buried in the 
mountains last summer. They will also look for deer. 
IS r ep-e-ken informs me that the shore ice around the 
whale is still very heavy, and he proposes to postpone 
the cutting up until a more auspicious time. The par- 
ty encamped one night on the ice going down and one 
night coming back. They report the ice very much 
wasted, even as low down as they have been. Indeed, 
T\ep-e-ken says he never before saw it so rotten at this 
time in the year. The ice along the shore above low- 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 129 

water mark lies in large, heavy, broken masses, and 
under one of these the whale is lying. 

May 22. — -We have fine weather to-day; light breeze 
from the north-west, and clear but cool. The ther- 
mometer fell last night to plus 15°. We were em- 
ployed to-day cleaning the bone from the whale's 
head. We find the slabs a little over ten feet in 
length. It is not as large a head as I had hoped. The 
slabs from a very large head will measure from eleven 
to thirteen feet, aud the jaw-bones of a large whale 
will measure from seventeen to seventy feet. The 
two Esquimaux, Pe-ker and Oc-a-took, returned late 
last night, or early this morning. The cabin boy fell 
through the ice yesterday while going ashore for our 
supply of meat. While I am writing this the wind 
hauls to the south-east. There are indications of bad 
weather again. We are certainly having a trying 
time of it this spring. One bad spell of weather fol- 
lows another in quick succession. Under the com- 
bined action of warm and bad weather and currents, 
I do not think the ice can last longer than the 15th of 
June. That is one month earlier than it generally 
disappears in the gulf. This evening I went on shore 
to ascertain, if possible, something about that deer- 
meat. I found it, but concluded to let it remain, as it 
was rather too old for our use. 
9 



180 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

May 23. — We have light southerly winds and snow 
to-day. It is quite warm. 

May 24. — Very fine weather to-day ; light easterly 
winds ; sun very hot. This morning the thermometer 
in the sun read plus 70°. Kuck-oo-jug and son started 
for the Kickerton Islands this morning. Nep-e-ken and 
three others have gone to the whale. They will bring 
back the lines, tubs, and whaling-gear which were left 
there last fall. I expect another south-east storm by 
to-morrow. 

May 25. — The storm anticipated yesterday from the 
south-east did not come. Instead, we have a strong 
breeze from the w T est. Yesterday afternoon or evening 
the dark, heavy bank of clouds which was seen down the 
gulf from early morning came rolling up to the north 
and west, covering the entire sky. We all looked for 
a severe storm and hoped to have better weather after 
it, but we were disappointed. It was quite cool this 
morning. Thermometer read plus 23°. Two Esqui- 
maux arrived from the Kickertons yesterday even- 
ing. They report nothing doing there, and that no 
whales have been seen. Some of the Esquimaux are 
quite sick, and the ankoots are, therefore, hard at work. 

May 26. — This is what may be termed "variety" 
weather. Yesterday we had a strong, cold wind from 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 131 

the north-west, which abated in the evening. The 
clouds again rolled up from the south and east to the 
north. At 12 midnight frozen snow fell. The wind 
veered quickly to the north and west and blew with 
violence. It is in the same quarter to-day, but it is 
somewhat more moderate. The Esquimaux who 
came from the south day before yesterday are not 
from the Kickertons, as I supposed, but from Sha-meer, 
a place a little to the north of Cape Storey, the north- 
ern cape at the entrance to the gulf. They report a 
great deal of ice in Davis's Strait. They brought 
two very fin e a bear-skins to the Florence, one from an 
old bear and the other from a young one. The mer- 
cury fell to plus 18° last night. Ice made in the 
washing vessel in my state-room. "We keep no lire 
in pleasant weather, as there is no coal to spare. It 
is Sunday. We are doing nothing, excepting, of 
course, the scientific work, which never stops. 

May 27. — Fair weather; light breeze from the 
north-west. It was cool last night; mercury plus 30°. 
I say "night"; of course we have no night, the sun 
merely dipping the northern edge of the horizon. We 
are still employed cleaning the whalebone. We find 
it very dirty. Nep-e-ken, Ete-tun, Al-o-kee, Chum- 
my, and Inue-mar-ket all promise to accompany me 
to the coast of Greenland, and are making prepara- 
tions to do so. 



132 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

May 28. — To-day we have cloudy weather, with 
light breeze from the south-east. We were employed 
repairing sails. All the male Esquimaux except two 
have been away for several days ; some deer-hunting, 
others seal-hunting. The two remaining at the schoon- 
er are Ete-tun and Oc-a-took. The latter is sick. Mr. 
Sherman has been surveying the harbor and vicinity 
and taking the altitudes of the prominent headlands. 
Froze quite hard last night. 

May 29. — We had quite a gale of wind from the 
south-east last night. Three inches of snow fell. The 
wind is to the south to-day and more moderate. It 
looks wild and bad down the gulf. Two Esquimaux 
returned from a deer and seal hunt last night. They 
killed one deer and several seals. Ete-tun, who 
went out yesterday, brought back four seals. Not- 
withstanding the southerly wind, the mercury fell to 
plus 24° last night. It thawed freely this morning. 
Broached a tierce of hams to-day, the first we have 
used. The wind blew .at the rate of thirty-live miles 
an hour this evening. It is snowing, and the snow is 
drifting. 

May 30. — Cloudy; light precipitation of snow, with 
variable wind. Nep-e-ken and party returned last 
night, bringing our whale-lines and tubs. Al-o-kee 
also returned from Kickerton Islands. He reports no 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 133 

whales as yet. The Esquimaux brought in some few 
seals. They inform me that the ice is in such a rotten 
condition that they are unable to seal upon it with any 
fair chance of success. It is certainly bad enough in 
this immediate vicinity. It is dismal, dreary weather. 

May 31. — Fair to-day; quite a strong breeze from 
the west. Employed cleaning bone, repairing sails, 

&c. * 

June 1. — Clouclv; liffht south-east wind. We were 
employed again to-day cleaning bone, repairing sails, 
&c. It was quite cold last night, and the temperature 
was but little higher this morning. 

June 2. — The south-east wind of yesterday increased 
to a gale last night and was accompanied by hail and 
sleet. The ice to the north of Annanatook has so 
wasted that holes of water-miles in extent are visible. 
Last night the ice outside of the harbor, and for a long 
distance to the south and east, gave way and drifted 
to the north into these vacant places. This has af- 
forded us quite a sea of water, which is not now more 
than seventy yards from the stern of the Florence. 
Some miles below this, again, there is a solid barrier 
of ice, extending from shore to shore and some fiftv 
or sixty miles north-west, and vice versa, still adhering 
to the land. It is, of course, uncertain when this will 



134 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

give way; but I do not think it can remain long, 
with water to the north and south of it. 

Kuck-oo-jng and son, who went to the Kicker-tons 
some days ago, arrived last night. They had to make 
a long circuit to the westward, and came up the south 
shore, where the ice is still quite firm. I received a 
letter from Captain Hall by Kuck-oo-jug. He in- 
formed me that the pack-ice of Davis's Straits has 
been up to the floe edge or fast ice ; that only lately 
it has drifted away, leaving them a chance to get their 
boats in the water to look for whales. He thinks the 
pack-ice is but a short distance below Warren's Island. 
As no whales are seen at the Kickertons, he supposes 
they are in the loose pack below. 

The wind is still in the south-east, weather thick, 
and snow falling. 

June 3. — We cannot complain of the weather to- 
day. It is very fine, with light, warm, variable winds. 
We broke the wasted ice around the vessel and hauled 
her to a safer position. The ice was so wasted on 
each side of the schooner for some .distance that it 
was difficult to get on or off the vessel. Yesterday 
we had to use the small boat to break away between 
the vessel and the firm ice. We were employed to- 
day getting everything off the ice and stowed in the 
hold, to be ready for a general break-up. 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 135 

June 4. — The light, variable wind and fine weather 
of yesterday did not last long. Toward evening the 
wind settled in the south-east and blew hard. At 6 
o'clock p. m: it was blowing at the rate of thirty-six 
miles an hour, and it continued at this rate through 
the night. Som-e of the squalls must have travelled 
fifty miles an hour. The wind blows directly into the 
harbor. All the broken* ice outside — and there were 
many miles of it— has gone to the north. The gale 
was not so violent this morning, but was still strong, 
with thick snow. The ice on the port side of the ves- 
sel has given away; also that attached to the little isl- 
and about sixty yards to the south of the us. All of 
this ice is now pressing on the vessel, which is in turn 
pressing on the still-fast harbor ice to the north. We 
are in no immediate danger, however. The ice has 
given way a month earlier than usual. This has de- 
stroyed the sealing, the best month for that purpose 
being June. Of course, without ice very few seals 
are captured. 

The strong belt of ice down the gulf is still fast. 
If it had given way it would have come to the north 
with the southerly wind. 

June 5. — The wind continued to blow all day yes- 
terday, and was accompanied by snow, hail, sleet, and 
rain. At 12 o'clock midnight snow commenced fall- 
ing in earnest, and lay as it fell. This morning at 8 



136 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

o'clock six inches of snow had fallen. At 12 o'clock 
meridian it was still snowing fast. We hove up one 
anchor to-day, washed deck, and are getting ready for 
a general tear-up. The ice is so wasted that one can 
scarcely reach the shore, and then it is done at the risk 
of falling through. Outside of the harbor it is all pack- 
ice, drifting with currents and wind. 

June 6. — Shortly after 12 o'clock yesterday the wind 
veered to the north-west, and it continued to blow, ac- 
companied by snow, till 2 o'clock this morning, when 
the snow ceased, the wind keeping up. The sun shines 
to-day, but it is quite cold. Thermometer last night 
read plus 23°. The land, which was getting clear of 
snow, is entirely covered again. We were employed 
to-day freeing the vessel and boats from snow and ice. 

Mr. Sherman still travels to and fro between the 
vessel, and the shore to take his observations, though 
he does so at the risk of a wet jacket. The Esqui- 
maux men manage as yet to get out to the schooner 
and their meals. The women and children do not 
venture. « 

June 7. — Weather quite fine to-day; light breeze 
from north-west. Mr. Kuralein was off with the small 
boat collecting specimens. The ice has closed and 
shut off his passage to the vessel. At 6.30 p. m. he 
was trying to haul the boat over the ice to the open 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 137 

water near the schooner. We were occupied with 
general ship work. 

June 8. — Rain commenced falling this morning and 
it continued all day. Some of the Esquimaux are 
sealing, among the drifting cakes of ice, in kyacks and 
the small boat. Mr. Kumlein shot some few ducks 
and sandpipers and a glaucus-gull yesterday. 

June 9. — Clear and fine. Rained nearly all night. 
Thermometer reads plus 55°. Mr. Kumlein is oft' for 
specimens, and some few of the Esquimaux are seal- 
ing to-day. Nep-e-ken brought me two burgomaster- 
ffull's eff£s l as t niffht. 

O GO O 

June 10. — It was calm and quite warm in the 
morning. Toward evening a strong breeze sprang up 
from the north-west. Some of the Esquimaux are 
deer-hunting; others are sealing. ]STep-e-ken brought 
one brent-goose to the vessel this evening. It is the 
first one I ever saw 7 in Cumberland Gulf. Nep-e-ken, 
however, has seen them here before. 

Engaged in sawing ice to -clay to clear the vessel. 
I heard water running freely down the mountain side 
yesterday for the first time this season. Noticed nu- 
merous burgomaster-gulls and ducks around the pack 
or broken ice outside the harbor. There are indica- 
tions of a storm this evening. 



138 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

June 11. — Wind quite heavy to-day from north- 
west. At 11.30 a. m. the ice to the west of the schoon- 
er started and quickly fouled our hawser. It contained 
many acres, and, therefore, pressed the vessel heav- 
ily. Everything was prepared for just such an occur- 
rence, however. Bending on our buoy rope, we let : 
the cable run, and, hoisting jib and foresail, we were 
once more under way. The water makes from the 
w r est side of Annanatook Harbor to the north shore 
in a semicircle. There is eood working room for a 
vessel while north-west winds prevail, as they drive all 
loose ice down the gulf until it meets the solid barrier 
below. Into this water we lay under short sail until 
the ice drifted out of the harbor, and then we returned 
to our anchorage. The vessel is light, which compelled 
us to work under short sail. On rounding the point 
to return to the anchorage we found it necessary to set 
the mainsail. It was reefed, but it keeled the schoon- 
er until- the lee boats were in the water. I think that 
in some of the squalls the wind travelled sixty miles 
an hour. 

Shortly after returning to our anchorage I attempt- 
ed to go on shore. The ice hi ,the inner harbor is 
quite good as yet, but it seems I found a weak spot in 
.it, for I got a cold bath before reaching the shore. 

The ice down the gulf appears to be solid and lirm. 
I must try and secure the schooner's safety as soon as 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 139 

the weather moderates. There is too much current 
here ; hence a great deal of heavy drift ice. 

June 12. — The gale still continues, and it is blowing 
very heavy. We' are lying by one anchor, as we were 
unable to get the buoyed one last evening. The ice 
in the north section of the harbor still holds. The 
scientific observations are still kept up. It is only 
about one hundred yards from the vessel to the fast 
ice, which still remains in the inner harbor, and about 
three hundred yards more to the shore, where the 
observatory is situated. By manning a boat strong 
we can pull to the fast ice, land on it, and walk to the 
shore. Although the wind is strong the sea is not 
rough. The wind is directly off the land, and, sur- 
rounded as we are by land and ice, no sea can rise. 

June 13. — We have still a strong breeze from the 
north-west. Everything remains about the same. The 
ice at the head of the harbor still holds, but, fearing 
it might come down upon the Florence and cause her 
to slip from her only anchor, we cut or sawed a dock 
in the ice in the inner harbor after breakfast this morn- 
ing, which ice still holds firm and strong. By 12 me- 
ridian we had the Florence safe in the dock. I do not 
think that the drifting ice can cause any trouble here, 
as we lie in a snug little cul-de-sac, and, for the present, 
are clear of drift ice. This evening there is very little 



140 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

wind, but the weather has a baleful, sombre appear- 
ance, and the thermometer is still inclined downward. 
After securing the schooner, we broke out the hold 
and stowed back, to be in readiness to take aboard 
some fresh water. We also repaired the gaff of the 
mainsail, which we found badly split at the jaws. 

June 14. — Last night the wind came on very sud- 
denly from the south-east, bringing snow and sleet. 
This morning it ceased and we have a light wind from 
the north-west, and, according to the appearance of 
the sky, a promise of plenty more. Employed to-day 
in hauling water and stowing it, preparatory to getting 
under way. It will be necessary, if we carry natives 
and dogs to the coast of Greenland, to take a large 
supply of water. Al-o-kee and Eg-e-low arrived from 
the Kickerton Islands last night. They report that 
one of the sealing steamers from Scotland has entered 
the gulf for whales, having failed in the sealing. 

June 15. — Quite a breeze last night, which contin- 
ued up to 3 o'clock to-day. Some of the Esquimaux 
have returned from deer -hunting. They killed two 
deer; two that were wounded escaped. We were em- 
ployed to - day scraping, scouring, and washing the 
schooner preparatory to painting. Early this morn- 
ing, when the breeze was the strongest, the whole 
mass of ice at the head of the outer harbor gave way 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 141 

and drifted out. We would have had trouble had we 
remained at our former anchorage, but in this quiet 
little nook we are safe, at least for the present. The 
wind is again to the south-east this evening. 

June 16. — Last night the south-east wind brought 
sleet, rain, and snow. This morning the wind was to 
the north-west. Iti the afternoon it commenced to 
blow hard, with snow and sleet. We certainly have 
bad weather. The Esquimaux returned last night from 
duck-shooting, bringing some few ducks. We are pre- 
serving the skins for foot-gear. 



June 17. — All last night we had snow and sleet, and 
I think at times it might have been called rain. We 
had the wind from about every quarter. This morn- 
ing the wind settled in the north-west, and from this 
quarter it continued to blow. The weather is so un- 
settled that we cannot do anything. We have prepared 
the vessel for painting, but cannot paint in such weather. 
The Esquimaux cannot hunt, nor can the squaws dry or 
cure skins. 

June 18. — -All kinds of weather. Last night the 
wind turned to the south and east. We have had 
snow, hail, sleet, and rain. Mr. Ivumlein, with a na- 
tive, went off in the little boat and brought back five 
ducks, two divers, and a gull. Nep-e-ken also shot sev- 



142 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

era! on the ice close to the schooner. We had duck for 
dinner, whale-meat for breakfast, and I think we will 
have lobster for lunch — canned, however. All we 
needed to make a full bill of fare was fog, and that is 



June 19. — Variety weather. Last night we had 
wind from the south-east. It rained, hailed, and blew 
strong until early morning, when it let go. The long- 
absent sun then condescended to show his face once 
more, and, as if to make up for his neglect, shone 
with great brilliancy and heat. Taking advautage of 
this, we commenced to saw the schooner farther into 
the ice, as that around us was getting rather weak. 
Mr. Sherman prepared his camera to take photographs 
of surrounding scenery, and Mr. Kumlein took the 
small boat, two Esquimaux, guns and ammunition, 
and launched forth on a day's hunt. Shortly after 12 
meridian the heavens became darkened and it began 
to rain. The camera was abandoned, work on the 
vessel ceased, and all sought shelter except the hunt- 
ers, who were far away and were soaked with rain. 

Kuck-oo-jug started for the Kickertons yesterday, 
and I fear he will not be able to get back, as I think 
the ice down the gulf has given waj 7 , and all we need 
is a good northwester to drive it out. The present 
w r incl from the south-east is holding it up. Nep-e-ken 
and Ete-tun shot two oog-jooks this morning. I have 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 143 

secured one of the bodies as a specimen for Kumlein. 
The skins will do for moccasin soles. 

June 20. — The rain continued until 10.30 to-day, 
when the sun again shone for a sfnrt time. At me- 
ridian the sky again became clouded and the wind 
veered from the south to south-east, and there it re- 
mains. 

Last evening, at 8.30 o'clock, the whole of the ice 
in the inner harbor made an effort to force its way 
out. of the north passage. As the Florence is clocked 
into this ice, it created for a time some little uneasi- 
ness, but the attempts of the ice to move out were 
futile. The passage was too small, and, after forcing 
its way some seventy yards, it stopped. 

The Esquimaux shot another oog-jook this after- 
noon. Mr. Sherman has been forced to give up his 
observations at the observatory on account of the bad 
state of the ice. He continues them, however, on 
board. 

I have been sounding up the lagoon leading to the 
north-west to-day, endeavoring to find some safer an- 
chorage for the vessel, where she would be clear of 
drift ice, but none was found. We are still holding 
on to our clock in the ice, but we may have to let go 
at any moment. The ice barrier between here and 
the Kickertons has given way, but, instead of going 
down the gulf, it has gone to the head, having been 



144 THE CRUISE OF THE FLOEENCE. 

forced up by the southerly winds. There are only two 
small islands between the drifting mass of ice and the 
vessel to protect her. 

June 21. — The wind continued from the south and 
east during the night, holding the broken noes hard 
pressed against the little islands which protect the ves- 
sel. Early this morning the wind came out from 
the north, with heavy snow-squalls. I was asleep in 
my berth at the time, but the wild roaring of the 
wind would have awakened Kip Yan Winkle had he 
been asleep here. I got up and went on deck, when 
a scene of wild confusion presented itself. The ice 
outside of the harbor, feeling the force of the wind 
and tide, which latter was on the ebb, was moving 
southward with great rapidity, the heavier and strong-, 
er masses rushing on over the lighter and weaker, and 
in their headlong course grinding them to atoms. The 
noise accompanying this, the wild roaring of the wind, 
and the Hying snow made up an awe-inspiring scene. 
The harbor ice soon commenced moving, this time try- 
ing to force its way out of the south-east passage, but 
it also proved too narrow, and the ice brought up hard 
against the land on both sides of the passage, and there 
it remains, and we remain with it, but not in an envi- 
able situation ; for we are surrounded by small islands 
and reefs, upon which the heavy ice may press the 
vessel at any moment. However, we have been at 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 145 

work to-day, and hope 'to prevent any such termina- 
tion of the " preliminary Arctic expedition." We have 
now about fifty yards of ice off one end, or fifty yards 
of scarf which set adrift about an acre of ice, and this 
gives us a chance to haul the Florence clear of dan- 
ger. 

This evening the weather is moderate. Through 
all the turmoil to-day, we have prepared our boats for 
whaling. The Esquimaux and myself sawed ice and 
the crew got the boats ready. 

June 22. — -Yesterday evening our north-west wind 
entirely left us. The tide was on the flood, and the 
piece of ice in which we were docked commenced 
moving toward the north-west shore, carrying the 
vessel into very shoal water. We just slipped oar 
lines in time and towed clear. Towing out into the 
outer harbor, we dropped anchor in nine fathoms of 
water, and there lay through the night." Early this 
morning the wind came asrain from the south and east 
and I made an anchorage some hundred yards fur- 
ther in shore, hoping thereby to, get out of the strength 
of the current and thus keep clear of the drift ice. 
The wind has been light all day, and the sky has been 
overcast. I was on the hill to-day and examined the 
ice .to the south. There was nothing to be seen but a 
heavy mass of broken floes, interspersed here and 
there with a lonety space of water. The floes are 
10 



146 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

again pressing hard upon the little islands which pro- 
tect us. 

June 23. — Last evening, at 10 o'clock, the inner- 
harbor ice threatened our little vessel again. The 
wind came from the south, and the flood-tide was in 
its strength when the ice attempted to force its way 
out through the north passage into the outer harbor 
where the schooner lay. We prepared everything for 
its reception as best we could and waited. It jammed 
between the points of the two islands, and as the ebb- 
tide is making it must remain there till the next flood. 
At 5 a. m. it will be low water. At 4 I examined 
the situation. It was blowing a good breeze from the 
south, with occasional squalls from the south-east, and 
rain. It was not favorable. The attempt to move 
a vessel against a strong breeze and tide, with no room 
to work in except with lines, is not a pleasant task. 
Running a line, however, to the weather point of the 
ice, we tripped our anchor, and by hard hauling drew 
the vessel up to that point. We had just succeeded 
in doing this when the whole mass started. Running 
a line to the small island on which it had been jam- 
med, we trusted to the schooner's strength, swung 
clear of the troublesome mass, and let it pass by, which 
it soon did. I was determined to get the schooner into 
the inner harbor if possible, and for that purpose now 
ran some three hundred and fifty fathoms of line in 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 147 

near the observatory, and then, slacking both lines, 
brought the vessel clown over the buoyed anchor, 
which was secured. The Esquimaux now came on 
board, which gave us strength, and by dint of hard 
hauling we managed to get the Florence into the inner 
harbor by 12 o'clock, when we had breakfast. The 
weather is most wretched. 

The heavy floes are piled hard up against the little 
island, making it impossible to go out of the harbor, 
even with a kyack or boat. 

June 24. — Cloudy, dreary weather. This morning 
early we were compelled to shift our anchorage again, 
as a large piece of ice threatened to foul the schooner. 
It has been calm most of the clay. As for the sun, 
we scarcely know .there is one, it so seldom shines. 
Shortly after dinner — 3.30 p. m. — the wind breezed 
from the north-west and rain began falling. Mr. 
Kumlein went out to-da}^ with some Esquimaux on a 
bird and egg hunt. As we are anchored close to the 
observatory, Mr. Sherman has resumed his observa- 
tions. There is no appreciable change in the condition 
of the heavy floes outside. 

June 25. — Earn fell till about 10 o'clock last night. 
It has been cloudy, clamp, and chilly. The mists hang 
low on the mountains and the weather has a dreary, 
sombre aspect. The ice has moved down the gulf 



148 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

some little distance, giving the boats a chance to move 
out of the harbor. !Nep-e-ken has taken advantage of 
this, and gone, with nine others, bird and egg hunting. 
Mr. Kumlein brought back a few ducks and about 
two hundred eggs from yesterday's hunt. He also 
brought back quite a hole in the boat, caused by the 
premature discharge of his gun. He did not return 
till 6 o'clock this morning. Of course we- are still at 
work trying to cure and dry skins, of which we have 
a fair quantity, yet not as many as I had hoped to get. 
We have a light breeze from the south this evening. 

June 26. — Light westerly wind, accompanied by 
snow and sleet. The southerly wind held until 6 
o'clock A. M., filling the harbor with ice. With the 
change of wind, however, the ice all disappeared. Ete- 
tun shot and secured two oog-jooks yesterday evening. 
As the skin of the oog-jook is the only one suitable for 
moccasin soles in this latitude, I am verv much grrat- 
ified to get them. We were employed to-day taking 
water on board. If this wind holds it will set the pack- 
ice down the gulf, and we will then get under way. 

June 27. — "We have it!" Southerly wind, which 
is blowing strong, with sleet and rain. The ice is 
again hard packed on the land. Nep-e-ken and his 
part} 7 , who are off egg, bird, and seal hunting, cannot 
get here until there is a change in the wind. There 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 149 

is quite a swell heaving from the south-east up the 
gulf — a certain sign that there is no pack-ice at the 
mouth. The weather is fearfully bad, and we are get- 
ting mouldy from the long-continued dampness. 

June 28. — The weather was much better to-day. 
There was a light south-east wind, and it was warm 
and sunny. The wind holds the ice still pressed fast 
on the land. It lessens our prospect of getting a whale 
this summer. We should be out now looking for one, 
but we cannot go oh account of ice. Nep-e-ken and 
party have not arrived, nor can they, get here until 
there is a change in the wind. The squaws were act- 
ively at work to-cla}^ preparing skins. The air was 
about calm this evening. 

June 29. — Cloudy, with indications of rain. The 
wind is to the south-east and the ice still jammed hard 
upon the land. I see no prospect of a change, at least 
for some time to come. The Esquimaux shot three 
more oog-jooks yesterday, and we have secured the 
skins. 

June 30. — Cloudy and calm. The ice remains un- 
changed. Nep-e-ken and party managed to reach the 
vessel to-day by hauling their boat over the ice. When' 
they had approached within a mile of the schooner a 
sleigh was sent to their assistance. This morning sev- 



150 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

eral boats were discovered on the ice toward the north 
shore. They were being hauled over the broken floes, 
now and then finding a little lake of water into which 
they were launched. The party reached here at 2 p. 
m., and. I found it composed of Captain Roach and 
several men from the Kickerton station. They left 
the station last Thursday, and are looking for whales. 
I hope for a north or north-west wind within twenty- 
four hours. 

July 1. — Calm and foggy the fore part of the day, 
and the latter part we had a light breeze from the 
west, which lasted only a few hours. In the evening 
the wind came fresh from the south-east, with fog and 
heavy rain. I can see no hope of escape for an in- 
definite time. Roach and party are encamped on the 
ice in the little bay to the south-west of the harbor. 

July 2. — Strong breeze from the south-east, with 
fog and rain. The harbor is full of broken ice. 

July 3. — Rain fell in torrents all night. This morn- 
ing the sky was overcast and a fog prevailed. The 
breeze was not quite as strong as it was yesterday. 
This evening there were indications of more rain. 
There has been no change in the ice. The harbor is 
still packed full. The Esquimaux come and go upon it 



WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF. 151 

between the vessel and shore. The temperature was 
somewhat cooler this evening. 

July 4. — Rain commenced falling at 10 o'clock last 
night and continued until 6 this morning, when the 
wind veered to the west. All day the wind was light 
and the sky overcast. The rain-clouds hung heavily 
and threateningly over us. This evening the wind 
breezed freshly from the west and rain fell. The 
harbor, which has been so packed with ice that it was 
almost impossible to reach the shore w 7 ith a boat, was 
quite clear at 6 o'clock p. m. This is so, at least, in 
the vicinity of the schooner, and we can reach the 
shore once more. Two hours before this the male 
Esquimaux came to the vessel over the broken pieces 
of ice. The women and children, however, did not 
venture. Roach is still detained here by the ice, but 
if this wind holds I hope to see water in the morning, 
which will free him and us also. 



152 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

gitvt Whivft. 

Annanatook to Disco. 

July 5. — Last evening, after a contest of an hour or 
two between the south-east and westerly winds, the 
south-easter succumbed. We had. quite a good breeze 
during the night. This morning it was light, but, 
notwithstanding this, I concluded to get under way. 
There was some little difficulty in getting the Esqui- 
maux, their dogs, kyacks, and all their traps on board; 
but this was accomplished by 3 o'clock p. m., and then 
we started. Our first attempt was to get down the 
south shore, but at the. Gloucester Islands, about twelve 
miles from the harbor, w T e met with ice packed hard 
against the land. Turning from that, we headed for 
the north shore, which we managed to reach a little 
below American Harbor, where we were again stopped 
by the ice. We then attempted to enter American 
Harbor, but the wind left us, and although we soon 
had two boats towing, the strong current refused to let 
us enter. So at 11 o'clock p. m., the time of the pres- 
ent writing, we are dodging about in the ice. 

Julv 6. — Shortly after midnight last niffht the west- 
erly wind died away, leaving us becalmed until morn- 
ing. This morning, at 6 o'clock, the wind came from 
the south-east. As the weather has had a threatening 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 153 

appearance during the last twenty-four hours, I con- 
cluded that the most prudent thing for us to do would 
he to make a harbor as soon as possible. American 
Harbor was then about twelve miles off, and was by 
all appearances free from ice. "VVe endeavored once 
more to enter this harbor and headed for it. Rain 
soon began falling, the breeze freshened, and the ice 
to the south of us was coming up before the wind. 
We pressed on all canvas, and, in spite of the strong 
currents, we reached an anchorage in the harbor at 
10.30 a. m. The .water is very deep here — twenty-five 
fathoms, w T ith mud bottom. Although the weather is 
bad, we manned a boat this afternoon, and Messrs. 
Kumlein and Sherman went to the shore, the former 
to collect specimens, and the latter to try, in the storm, 
to get some photographs of the place. Rain fell heav- 
ily all day and the wind this evening blew strong. It 
is almost impossible, with the annoyance of the Esqui- 
maux children, the howling of the dogs, and an unset- 
tled mind, to get any rest. The babies cry, the dogs 
howl, and the puppies cry, all in chorus. 

July 7. — Until 2 o'clock a. m. the gale continued 
with fearful violence. It was just as much as we could 
do to breast the storm when walking from aft forward 
on the vessel's deck. Rain poured down in torrents. 
At 9 o'clock this evening we canted the schooner's 
head in close to the island which shelters her from the 



154 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

fury of the storm and drifting ice, and let go the big 
anchor. Fortunately no heavy ice fouled the vessel, 
nearly all of it sweeping some fifty yards to the east- 
ward of where she lay. At 2 o'clock the wind abated. 
All hands were called and the big anchor was hove 
up, to prevent its fouling with the other anchor. 

To-day we have westerly wind, with rain, hail, and 
sleet at times. Mr. Sherman persisted in stopping on 
shore last night to measure the tides and, if possible, 
to do something else in his line. This morning; I sent 
a boat for him. He says he managed to get the tides, 
and, judging by his appearance, I think also one of 
the worst soakings he ever had. 

July 8. — During the night the wind hauled to the 
south-east, and was accompanied by rain, snow, and 
sleet. At 12 meridian to-day the sun attempted to 
shine, and did actually appear for a few minutes, and 
then vanished. In spite of the bad weather, I con- 
cluded to take a boat and an Esquimaux boat's-crew 
and go down to see if there was anything left of the 
whale, and if not to bring back our canvas tent, cut- 
ting spades, tackle, &c, that were carried there in the 
spring. We started at 10 a. m., and after a good long 
pull, hauling over ice, and getting thoroughly wet, we 
succeeded in reaching within about four hundred yards 
of the carcass, where we were stopped by such ice as 
one could neither haul over nor pull through without 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 155 

running the risk of a stoven boat or a wet jacket. I 
was in no humor for either of these alternatives, and 
so we stopped. We could see the carcass and cask. 
They were still there ; but whether there is any oil 
left in the blubber, I cannot tell. We put about and 
started for the schooner. We had considerable diffi- 
culty in navigating through the ice to open water. 
We reached the vessel at 9 o'clock p.m., having picked 
up on the way a few ducks, a seal, and a white whale, 
which latter we found dead. Mr. Kumlein, who was 
with us, wished to save the bones of the whale for 
specimens ; so I had it towed to a piece of ice, and, 
hauling it out of the water, the Esquimaux soon dis- 
sected it. We then put in the boat such parts of the 
remains as we wished to preserve, and proceeded on 
our way to the schooner. The ice is very much wast- 
ed, and it cannot interfere with us much longer. 

July 9. — We have a fresh breeze from the south-east 
to-day. The weather is cloudy and a fog hangs heavily 
over the land. Mr. Sherman is on shore, trying to ascer- 
tain the elevation of some of the prominent mountains. 
Mr. Kumlein is also on shore, cleaning and preparing 
his white-whale specimen. The Esquimaux are assist- 
ing him. We on board are getting water and break- 
ing out provisions, — enough, I hope, to last until we 
get clear of the Esquimaux ; and by getting out enough 
provisions now we need not encroach upon their do- 



156 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

main until we arrive at Disco Island. The weather is 
so very bad that I fear some of the skins which could 
not be dried will spoil. 

July 10. — Cloudy and foggy over the land. A fresh 
breeze prevails from the south-east. Rain fell by spells 
all night. There is considerable ice outside of the har- 
bor. Mr. Kumlein and some of the Esquimaux were 
off gathering specimens to-day, and Mr. Sherman was 
engaged taking photographs of the surrounding coun- 
try from the deck of the schooner. If there is an 
opportunity, we will get under way again to-night or 
to-morrow. 

July 11. — Cloudy; occasional showers of rain. All 
the morning the wind was light and variable. This 
afternoon we had a light breeze from the north. The 
ice outside of the harbor is in much the same condition. 
Some of the skins which we have heretofore been 
unable to dry, and which we had barreled up, were 
found this morning to be spoiling. I therefore sent 
them ashore, and the squaws with them, to dry them, 
if possible. I fear it will be difficult to do so if the 
prevailing showers continue. 

The Esquimaux are off sealing in their boats. They 
will, if possible, before their return, ascertain the posi- 
tion of the ice to the south-east of us. But the wind 
hangs to the south-east, and that is dead ahead. "We 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 157 

have another man down with a sore hand. We were 
employed to -day getting some fresh water; with the 
Esquimaux and dogs, we use it very fast. 

July 12. — Quite clear to-day. Our northerly wind 
yesterday lasted about an hour; then it hauled to the 
south-east and brought rain. It did not have any ap- 
preciable effect on the ice outside. I sent a boat to 
the point at which the whale lies to bring back all our 
gear remaining there. As it is getting late in the sea- 
son we will have no time to spare, and will therefore 
have to leave at the first opportunity. 

The Esquimaux shot two more oog-jooks yesterday. 
The squaws are at work on the shore drying the skins. 
For a wonder, it does not rain to-day. We had a light 
breeze from the south, and the air is dark and heavy 
down the gulf, as if another storm was close upon us. 
The ice outside is merely a shell. With a fair wind 
for a few hours we would be free. The boat returned 
from the whale at 4 o'clock this afternoon. The crew 
report considerable water below. We will try in the 
morning to break through the ice between the vessel 
and open water. We have quite a number of skins 
on shore drying. 

July 13. — Clear and fine. This morning at live 
o'clock all hands were called to ^et under way. It 
was calm, but the tide was at the flood, and I intended 



158 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

to take the strong ebb-tide, and, with the aid of the 
freshet, get a good offing before the return tide. The 
half-cured skins and the dogs were soon on board, we 
tripped our anchor, and, with the aid of boats, soon 
cleared the harbor. On getting well off shore a light 
west wind rendered the use of boats no longer neces- 
sary, and they were hoisted. We went along finely. 
The water was as smooth as a mirror. We steered 
directly for ISTew JSTorvion, on the south side of the gulf 
and about ninety miles distant. As we approached 
this place we found it surrounded by ice, and while 
working through this we heard several guns fire in 
shore. We stood in the direction of the reports, and 
soon saw two boats coming. They came alongside, 
and proved to contain crews of Esquimaux who had 
been in the service of the Scotch during the last year. 
I soon got the information that they were off on a 
deer-hunt, and that the Esquimaux who had promised 
to go with me to the coast of Greenland had gone 
deer-hunting several clays ago. I endeavored to pre- 
vail upon some of these to accompany me, but they 
would not listen to it. I now paid off and left two 
Esquimaux families that we had taken from Niantilic 
to Annanatook last fall. This leaves me Nep-e-ken 
and his family, Ete-tun and his family, Chummy, and 
Al-o-kee — -four men, two squaws, and four children. 
After getting clear of these Esquimaux we imme- 
diately bore up for the Kickertons, then about fifty 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 159 

miles distant. At 12 o'clock midnight we had no 
wind. At 12 o'clock midday on the 1.4th there was 
still no wind, and one boat was out towing. We have 
not force enough to man two boats. Kickerton was 
at this time about eight miles off. I could see no 
vessel in the harbor. 

July 15. — Clear and line. Yesterday we managed 
to reach an anchorage at Kickerton Island by dint of 
hard rowing, assisted a little by fitful winds. Here I 
heard from Mr. Meech, who has charge of the Scotch 
station now, that the vessels have all left for home, and 
that Captain Roach has broken up the American sta- 
tion by order of Mr. Williams, of New London ; also 
that he and his crew have gone home by way of Scot- 
land. Captain Roach left me two fine sleighs and 
some jaw-bones of whales, to be used in making other 
sleighs ; also paint, kerosene oil, varnish, and a signal 
lantern. Had we reached here a few days ago we 
could have procured quite an addition to our store of 
skins. The Scotch vessels have all failed in the whal- 
ing this season. Two have got nothing ; one ship has 
one'whale and another two. We are actively at work 
getting everything in order for a final start to the coast 
of Greenland. I sent a number of skins on shore this 
morning to be cleaned and dried. They were spoiling. 

July 16. — Cloudy and foggy. Yesterday afternoon 



160 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

rain commenced falling. The skin -drying had, of 
course, to be abandoned. We were employed to-day 
preparing a place in the vessel's hold for the Esqui- 
maux to live in during the passage to Greenland. 
Rain fell in the latter part of the day. A strong wind 
from the south-east prevailed. It was my intention 
to get under way this evening, but I concluded to 
remain here until there was a favorable change in the 
weather. With the present weather we could make 
no headway. 

July 17. — Cloudy, with light, variable wind. This 
morning we commenced to get the Esquimaux and 
dogs on board for a start. By 1 o'clock p. m. this 
was accomplished and we got under way. On getting 
outside of the harbor we found the wind very light 
from the south, scarcely strong enough to afford steer- 
age-way. At the Kickerton Islands we got an addition 
of one native, three squaws, and two children to our 
crew. We have now live men, five squaws, and five 
children on board, and I think that will be enough. 
We have also nearly thirty dogs, with sledges, &c. 
We are now bound for Niantilic, to get some skins 
left for me by Tes-e-wane, the native with whom we 
left the trade last fall. 

July 18. — The weather remained calm until 9 
o'clock last evening. Then we got a light breeze from 



ANNANAT00K TO DISCO. 161 

the south-south-east, almost directly ahead, as Niantilic 
is south of the Kickertous. The breeze lasted urjtil 12 
midnight, when it died away, leaving us becalmed in 
a thick fog. This morning, at 9 o'clock, the fog lifted, 
and at 12 noon we were favored with another light 
breeze from the same quarter as the one last night. 

July 19. — Very fine weather. We managed to 
reach Blacklead Island, live miles from Mantilic, at 

3 o'clock this morning. I took a boat and an Esqui- 
maux crew and went on shore to allow the Esquimaux 
to have a talk with their friends and relatives. We 
bade them good-by and returned to the Florence. At 

4 o'clock p. m. we set all sail, having a good breeze 
from the north-west, and stood down the gulf. At 5 
p. m. we were abreast of Leopold and Coburg Island, 
off Cape Mercy. There is some little ice and a num- 
ber of bergs, but nothing as yet to stop our way. The 
weather is delightful. It is bright and sunny, with a 
good strong breeze. Mr. Kumlein is now sketching 
the cape, a very bold, time, weather, and ice worn 
headland, in latitude 64° 50' north, longitude 63° 30' 
west! 

July 20. — We had fine weather and light variable 
winds during the night. At 7 o'clock a. m. we dis- 
covered a bear among the floating ice-floes. It was 
soon dispatched and on board, and it proved to be 
11 



162 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

quite a large one. To-day we had wind from the 
south*; At 12 meridian the weather was very fine, 
with the barometer inclined downward. I think at 12 
we were nearly, if not entirely, clear of the drifting 
floes of ice. Some of them are very heavy, and, hav- 
ing to force our way through a narrow stream, last 
night we struck one of them a severe blow, which I 
fear has set the schooner leaking somewhat. Cape 
Walsino-ham was in sisvht this noon. 

July 21. — The weather is very bad. We have 
strong winds and thick fog. The Florence is under 
close -reefed sails, and we are beating at random 
through the fog. I hoped last night that we were 
clear of ice, but we still find plenty of it, and it is 
heavy, there being many bergs, making navigation 
dangerous. 

July 22. — The weather is still foggy. Yesterday, 
toward evening, the wind died away, leaving us almost 
becalmed. The air still remained densely thick with 
fog, but we went groping along among the floes. 
Upon going to the mast-head I could see no outlet 
ahead; — nothing but a mass of heavy floes. To the 
north-east there was the appearance of water, bat 
how much it was impossible to tell. I determined to 
get the vessel there if possible. All hands were called, 
and both boats were put ahead to tow and assist in 



AXXANATOOK TO DISCO. 163 

tacking the schooner, as it was almost calm and there 
was but small beating space between the floes. One 
boat was manned by the Esquimaux ; the other by our 
own crew. By their aid and quick work we managed 
to get the schooner into water where there was room 
to work her, when all hands were called on board. 
Sail was made to beat up to the north-east to the open 
water. At this time the fog shut down again, but I 
had taken the bearings of the water, and, having a 
little breeze, I supposed I would soon reach it. We 
now took in the flying-jib and gafftopsail, hauled the 
jib to the mast, and lay-to. 

July 23. — Ice in every direction ; thick fog and rain ; 
wind, from the south-east. "We are dodging in a hole 
of water. How much water or how much ice there is 
around us, we cannot tell in this thick weather. It is 
weary work. Time is slipping fast and it is impossible 
to do anything. This is the third day of thick weather 
and easterly winds. 

July 24. — Heavy wind from the east ; weather thick 
and rainy. We have been beating all day to the east 
through the broken floes. This evening, at 7.30. we 
tied up to a piece of ice. The weather is very hard. 
We have a head-wind and plenty of ice. We arc now 
in latitude 66° north, longitude 59° west. There ap- 
pears to be no end to the ice. The nights are some- 



164 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

what dark at midnight, and that, with the fog aud a 
gale of wind, renders it dangerous to attempt to work 
through the floating masses. We have been all day 
under close-reefed sails. 

July 25. — The heavy wind from the east continues. 
Last night we were busy until 12 o'clock trying to 
keep the vessel from collision with the heavy floes. 
There is quite a swell under the ice, and it is very 
dangerous to let the schooner get between two floes 
or bergs, as there are spurs projecting under the water 
from them all. At 12 the wind died away, leaving us 
fog and rain. This morning the sun was out, but the 
weather had a threatening look. At 12 meridian our 
latitude w T as 65° 55' north and our longitude 58° west. 
It is the only day since our departure from Niantilic 
that was favorable for an observation. After 12 it 
commenced to blow, with rain and thick weather. 
The barometer is very low and still inclined down. 
Everybody is gloomy, and even the dogs howl in their 
distress. It is, indeed, a gloomy and cheerless time. 
Never before have I experienced such a continuation 
of bad weather on this coast. 

July 26. — Cloudy and hazy; fresh breeze from 
south-south-east. At 10 a. m. we cast off our lines 
from the piece of floe to' which we had been fastened 
the last two days. We then made sail and commenced 



ANNAN ATOOK TO DISCO. 165 

working to windward. The ice is quite close, and a 
vessel longer than the Florence would scarcely work 
through it. Last night, at 12, a very heavy wind pre- 
vailed. Yesterday afternoon one of the Esquimaux 
came and asked me to let one of the women ankoot 
for better weather. I could see that they were getting 
nervous over the long spell of bad weather ; so, to 
encourage them, I consented to give her a skirt as a 
fee. They had it hot and heavy last night. The re- 
sult was somewhat better weather this morning, but 
the wind was still ahead. We were at noon in lati- 
tude 65° 55' north, longitude 58° west. 

July 27. — Cloudy, with strong breeze from the south- 
south-west. ' At 8 o'clock last evening we succeeded 
iu getting out of the ice. We came out under close- 
reefed sails, and if the schooner Florence was ever in 
danger of having her sides stove in, she was then. 
We pressed on all the canvas she could bear on get- 
ting out, so as to make an opening and get clear of 
bergs and scattered pieces, but at 1 o'clock a. m. the 
sea was so heavy and the wind so strong that we were 
compelled to come under storm-sails. The poor Es- 
quimaux and dogs suffer a great deal, as they are not 
accustomed to the sea. We have the Esquimaux and 
the puppies battened down in the hold of the vessel. 

July 28. — Hazy, but sun shone, with light breeze 



166 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

from east and north-east. We kept off for Disco yes- 
terday as the wind moderated. We are now about 
eighty-five miles from the island, and are running 
with light wind. 

July 29 — - Yesterday afternoon our light wind and 
fair weather did not last long. Toward evening the 
wind commenced to blow from the north-north-east, 
and by 2 a. m. we were under storm-sails. The weather 
had a most ominous appearance. .The wind swept 
down upon us with great force. Shortly after a dense 
black bank of cloud came sweeping down toward the 
schooner, and we were soon enveloped in as dense a 
black fog as I ever saw. The fog had a tendency to 
kill the wind somewhat, but we were under storm-sails 
all night. This morning we set foresail and mainsail, 
both close reefed, with bonnet out of jib. At 10 a. m. 
the sea is still quite bad and the weather no better;, 
thick and rainy. We are near land and not far from 
Disco Island, but dare not steer for it in this dense 
weather and "heavy sea. This evening the wind was 
from the western quarter, directly on the land, but I 
am very uncertain whether it will remain there. One 
of our dogs died or was killed last night. 

July 30. — Cloudy, with light breeze from the north- 
north-east and quite a heavy swell. Kain fell heavily 
all night and the air was thick. This morning the 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 167 

coast of Greenland was in sight, about iifty miles dis- 
tant. The wind is directly ahead, and it is light ; the 
swell is heavy. We are making but little headway. 
We have now lost two dogs. A great many birds are 
in sight, and we have passed hundreds. 

July 31. — Cloudy, and very thick at times. Yes- 
terday evening the wind hauled to the north. Rain 
has commenced falling again, and the atmosphere has 
become foggy. I can only guess as to our position, as 
it has been impossible to get observations. At 11 
o'clock we sighted the island. We made Fortune 
Bay, a short distance to the west of the harbor of Disco. 
The wind left us at 5 o'clock a. m. I called all hands 
and sent two boats ahead to tow. The air had become 
so thick that at times, though close in, we could not 
see the shore ; but we pulled through and managed to 
get safely anchored at 8 o'clock a. m. Here we find a 
Danish bark, but no American vessel. 

August 1. — Cloudy and foggy; wind south-east. 
Two steamers hove in sight to -day from the north. 
One came into the harbor and towed out the Danish 
bark, the captain of which is bound to Upernavik. The 
Danish and Scotch vessels have been unable to reach 
Upernavik this season on account of ice. This has 
been one of the most icy seasons known for many 
years. We caught quite a quantity of codfish to-day, 



168 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

which, of course, made a feast for us. We are looking 
anxiously for the expedition. 

August 5. — The weather during the last four days 
has been very tine, and we have taken advantage of it 
to paint our vessel. Every morning the Esquimaux 
are sent to feed the dogs, which have been landed on 
one of the outer islands, and there they remain until 
night. We have no communication whatever with 
the people on shore. On our arrival here Governor 
Smith was absent. One or two of his subordinates 
to-day came alongside and informed me that the Gov- 
ernor had left orders that there should be no commu- 
nication between the vessel and shore. I asked the 
reason of this strange order, and was informed that 
one Captain Adams of the Scotch steamer Arctic had 
been here in the early spring and told the Governor 
that the Esquimaux and crew of the schooner Florence 
were all diseased. I asked permission to land ray 
clogs remote from the town, which was accorded. 
The following day one of the inhabitants came off in 
a kyack, paddled alongside, and brought me some late 
papers. Messrs. Sherman and Kumlein, with an Es- 
quimaux crew, went to the Blue Mountains to-day, 
for the purpose of ascertaining something about the 
meteoric stones found there. 

August 6. — Cloudy and foggy. It is difficult to tell, 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 169 

in this little basin, which way the wind is from. Messrs. 
Sherman and Kumlein have not returned yet. We 
were employed to-day scraping our masts and booms. 
I feel very much disappointed at the non-appearance 
of the expedition and at having received no word from 
Captain Howgate or from home. , There is a rumor 
here that the American Government has bought the 
English steamer Pandora, and that she is to come here. 

August 7. — Very fine weather. Having about all 
our work done, the crew were off' fishing to-day, to 
make our provisions hold out. Messrs. Sherman and 
Kumlein returned this morning at 4 o'clock. They 
found the place at which Nordenskjold discovered me- 
teoric stones and brought back a few specimens ; very 
small ones, however. They were told by a native 
whom they found encamped near by that he knew the 
locality of two large ones. If the weather permits we 
will try to find them. Mr. Kumlein has been quite 
successful in his line, as he has got several rare birds. 

August 8. — Quite fine weather. Last night it was 
very foggy. We were employed to-day getting fresh 
water and fishing for codfish, on which latter we dine 
every day. We made a trade to-day for a piece of 
meteoric stone from the Blue Mountains. One of the 
natives brought it. It will weigh about two pounds. 



170 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

August 9.— Very fine weather. We have, of course, 
daylight during most of the twenty-four hours, and 
nearly continuous sunshine. If it were not for the 
mosquitoes one could enjoy a ramble on the shore. 
They number millions, and even attack us on the ves- 
sel. Several of the crew are fairly poisoned with their 
bites. Messrs. Sherman and Kumlein again went to 
the Blue Mountains to-day, and were accompanied by 
a native boat-crew. They were provided with tackle, 
crowbars and rope, to raise any meteoric stones that 
they may find, if not too heavy. If they find any 
stones so heavy that they cannot raise them, I will go 
down with the schooner, if the weather permits, and 
render assistance. A Danish brig entered the harbor 
last evening. 

August 10. — Very fine weather. The crew were 
off fishing to-day. We must catch fish for dog -food, 
as we have no other. The name of the Danish brig is 
the Whalefish, and the captain's name is Kettles. The 
captain was on board last evening. He cannot speak 
much English, nor can I much Danish, but we man- 
age to understand each other. This morning a small 
schooner of about ten tons came in. 

August 11. — Cloudy and cool. It is the only day 
since we came here on which we have not been mo- 
lested by mosquitoes. The wind is from the north 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 171 

and east, and the atmosphere is somewhat foggy over 
the land. Messrs. Sherman and Kumlein returned 
last evening. > Sherman found two fair specimens of 
what is supposed to be meteoric stone. Kumlein se- 
cured a tounkflsh and some few birds. He also added 
somewhat to his collection in botany. It is Sunday, 
and the little bell on shore summoned the people to 
church. We have no communication with them. 
Every day the boats from shore, containing the half- 
breeds of the settlement, come around the schooner to 
gaze upon the "West Land Esquimaux, but none of 
these visitors are allowed on board. There is now 
scarcely a pure-blooded Esquimaux on the coast of 
Greenland. Light hair, red hair, and blue eyes are 
common. No expedition yet. We are out of fuel. 

August 12. — Strong wind to-day, but pleasant with- 
al. We were employed to-day getting water. We 
will get under way on the 15th, if the weather is favor- 
able. 

August 13. — Cloudy weather, with a strong breeze 
from the north-east. We were employed to-day fish- 
ing. Mr. Kumlein is repainting the name of the 
schooner, which had been erased when she received 
her new coat of paint, soon after our arrival here. 
Mr. Smith, the inspector, sent a boat yesterday after- 
noon with a request for me to come on shore, as he 



172 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE, 

wished to see me. He says that the surgeon and cap- 
tain of the steamer Arctic informed him that there was 
a great deal of sickness among the Esquimaux in the 
gulf, and that it was only to protect his own Esquimaux 
from disease that he issued the order forbidding com- 
munication with us. I shall get what I need here, — 
some little coal, some sugar, coffee, and tobacco. 
Then I must take the Esquimaux and their dogs to 
their native land. After that we shall be homeward 
bound ! Mr. Smith informs me that he read in a 
Danish paper that the expedition had been postponed 
until next year. 

August 14. — We are having another spell of bad 
weather. The wind is from the north-east, but it is 
only local, as there is a heavy sea coming from the 
south and east. Rain is falling. Mr. Kumlein; Mr. 
Sherman, and myself were on shore to-day, and dined 
with the inspector. This is the first sign of civiliza- 
tion we have had the pleasure of seeing for more than 
a year. Mr. Smith has a very pleasant family, and so 
has Mr. Fingers, the government store-keeper. I 
bought of the inspector one and a half tons of coal, 
forty pounds of coffee, forty pounds of sugar, and 
twenty-five pounds of tobacco. 

The Danish brig left early this morning. I expected 
to leave to-morrow, but Mr. Smith is looking constant- 
ly for dispatches by two vessels that sailed from Den- 



ANNANATOOK TO DISCO. 173 

mark in July, and he thinks there will be letters for 
the Florence by them. The straits have not been so 
full of ice for many years. 

August 15. — Very bad weather. The wind strong 
from the south-east. It is raining also. We did noth- 
ing to-day, as it was stormy. We will wait till better 
weather before we get our coal, &c. 

August 18. — The weather for the last three days has 
been anything but good. We have had strong wind 
and rain continuously. To-day we made an attempt 
to feed our dogs, but were unable to effect a landing 
on account of the heavy sea. It rained very hard. 
The wind here in the harbor is eastward, but outside 
it must be from the south-east, or we would not have 
had such a sea. The inspector is looking every mo- 
ment for late letters from Denmark, and we hope to 
receive some also. 

August 21.— Yesterday we had clear weather, for 
the first time in several clays. To-day it is also pleas- 
ant. Neither letters nor vessels have arrived. The 
inspector fears for the safety of the vessels. We, of 
course, cannot wait much longer. 



174 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

fart Jourtft, 

j^OMEWARD EOUND. 

August 22. — This evening, at 8 o'clock, we got un- 
der way. About the time we were starting word came 
from the shore that a Danish vessel was in sight. The 
inspector came on board and wished me to await her 
arrival, as he thought she must have letters for us. 
But I had waited long enough and was determined to 
go. I bought of the inspector a halt-ton more coal, 
forty pounds of sugar, forty pounds of coffee, twenty- 
live pounds of tobacco, and three hundred and seven- 
ty-live pounds of bread. If the pack-ice is at Cum- 
berland now, we may be a month landing the Esqui- 
maux and the dogs, and it is only prudent that we 
should provide for such an emergency. On getting 
out to the island where our dogs have been domiciled 
during our stay at Disco, I sent a boat for them, and 
as soon as they were on board we started down the 
straits. 



August 23.— Weather quite tine; wind to the north- 
9st. We have sighted ice, and are 
on the coast of Greenland to avoid it. 



west. We have sighted ice, and are steering a little 



August 24. — We have a fresh breeze from the east- 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 175 

south-east, accompanied by rain. We were under 
storm-sails in the evening or early night. The wind 
is increasing and the rain continues. 

August 25. — Strong wind from south-east. We are 
under storm-sails. The weather is rainy and thick. 
The Esquimaux are barred down under the hatches. 
The clogs suffer a great deal from the sea washing over 
them and from hunger. 

August 26. — The weather to-day was, if anything, 
worse than yesterday. 

August 27. — Last night was one of the worst I ever 
passed at sea. The wind blew heavily and the sea ran 
high. We are surrounded by many icebergs, which 
we see occasionally through the storm. The greater 
part of the time, however, we cannot see more than 
ten yards from the schooner. So far we have drifted 
clear of everything. The gale began to abate this 
afternoon. The wind hauled to the south and the 
atmosphere cleared a little. At 3.30 p. m. land was 
sighted. I instantly wore the vessel around, put the 
jib on, shook one reef out of the foresail, and, with her 
head offshore, let her go. The sea was running very 
high, and at every plunge the schooner's head would 
disappear beneath the waves ; so we had to reef the 



176 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

foresail again ; with bob-jib, close-reefed foresail, and 
storm-staysail we worked off shore. 

August 31. — For nearly three days we have had 
quite calm weather. The wind was very light, and 
fog prevailed the greater part of the time. Last night 
we doubled Cape Mercy, and reached JSTiantilic Har- 
bor at 3 o'clock p. m. to-day. Here we found the 
American schooner Franklin, of New Bedford, Massa- 
chusetts. "We heard from Captain Church, of the 
Franklin, that a bark from the same place is at the 
Kickertons. 

September 2. — Yesterday, being Sunday, we rested, 
and indeed the men need rest ; for they have had but 
little for the last nine days. To-day I discharged the 
Esquimaux. I gave them one boat, four guns, all the 
remaining ammunition, two opera-glasses, one suit of 
clothing each, nearly all of the Danish bread we bought 
at Disco, some little molasses, and one tent. We will 
now get water and prepare for the home voyage. 

September 8. — We have been quite idle during the 
last six days. The wind has been principally from the 
south, when a calm did not prevail. Yestercla} 7 a rain- 
storm came, accompanied by very strong wind from 
the south-east. To-day the wind is from the west. I 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 177 

shall wait until the full of the moon before starting 
for home. 

September 11. — We have a high wind from the 
north-west to-day. I intended to start for home 
this morning, but the wind blew so strong that it was 
impossible to get our anchors. Yesterday we had a 
south-east snow-storm. The land is covered with 
snow, and it looks like early winter. The fresh-water 
ponds are freezing. Ice is also making on our decks. 
The water has fallen in temperature the last three days 
from plus 38° to plus 33°. 

September 12. — All yesterday and up to 12 o'clock 
last night the wind blew from the north-west with ter- 
rible violence. The vessel trembled in every timber. 
Both anchors are ahead and both chains are out their 
full length. At times the snow was so dense that we 
could see only a few yards. At 12 midnight the wind 
abated and hauled to the south-east. It is still snow- 
ing heavily. I wish to get under way, but cannot in 
such weather. It is verv cold and ice is making fast. 



■r- 



September 13. — Yesterday afternoon the wind veer- 
ed again to the west. At 3.30 o'clock we got under 
way. At 5 o'clock the wind blew heavily, accompa- 
nied at times with snow. We are running under cjose- 
reefed foresail and bonnet out of jib. Toward mid- 
12 



178 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

night the storm abated a little. Snow stopped falling, 
and I am glad of it; for there are many bergs about. 
The sea is very heavy, and as it sweeps across our 
decks it leaves them covered with pash-ice. One sea 
came over the stern, and a portion of it landed in the 
cabin. To-day the weather is better, but we have a 
strong breeze from the west. At noon we sighted 
Lady Franklin Island. There are many bergs here- 
about. Yesterday, on coming out of the harbor, we 
spoke the Eliza P. Simmons, schooner, Captain James 
Budington. He came on board and informed us that 
his vessel passed last winter in Repulse Bay. The 
whaling having failed there, he has come to the gulf 
in 'the hope of getting something this fall. Captain 
Spicer's bark Nile is also here, and has likewise failed. 
The schooner Era, Captain Miner, is at New-gum - 
eute, clean. All three vessels wintered in Hudson's 
Straits last winter. 

September 14. — Weather quite fine to-day. Yester- 
day and last night we had a strong breeze from the 
west and north-west. A very heavy sea is running. 
We have passed many bergs and smaller pieces o£ ice. 
The small pieces are the most dangerous, as it is diffi- 
cult to see them in the night, especially when we are 
running in heavy weather. It is difficult at times to 
■ distinguish ice from sea-caps. At noon we were in 
latitude 60° 10'. We have made a run in the last two 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 179 

days of three hundred and fifty miles. Ice made quite 
freely last night, bat the temperature is moderating to- 
day. Many bergs were in sight this afternoon. The 
barometer is high, and the cirrus clouds denote more 
wind. Our longitude is approximately 62° west. We 
are about sixty miles off Cape Chidleigh, the south 
cape of Hudson's Straits. We had snow-squalls 
through the night. 

September 15. — Last evening the wind veered to 
the east. The clouds had a dark and threatening 
appearance, and we all looked for another storm. 
Through the night, however, the weather remained 
very moderate ; indeed, nearly calm. We had occa- 
sional snow-squalls, but there was only slight wind in 
them. The weather has been calm nearly all day to- 
da}^. This evening we have a light breeze from the 
north. We still see bergs. Our longitude, by obser- 
vation, is 60° 7' west; latitude at nooh 58° 59'. 

September 16. — Cloudy, heavy - looking weather. 
The wind this afternoon hauled from north-west to 
south-west. We had considerable snow and a very 
strong breeze last night. In fact, the wind, if we had 
not been running off before it, would have been called 
a gale. One berg was seen last night. Many land 
birds are around us, some of which come on board, 



180 THE CEUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

rest awhile, and then depart landward. Latitude at 
noon 57° 9' north, longitude 58° 25' west. 

September 17. — Yesterday evening the wind hauled 
to the south-east. It soon increased to a strong breeze, 
accompanied by rain. The temperature, which has 
been quite low, has moderated. The wind in the night 
brought us down to storm-sails, but it has decreased 
to-day. It is raining. We have seen no ice since 
night before last. 

September 18. — We had calm weather last night. 
This morning, at 4 o'clock, the wind breezed from 
the south-south-east and brought a very dense fog with 
it. We are making very slow progress. The wind is 
dead ahead. 

September 19. — Yesterday evening the wind blew 
strong from the south-south-east, with rain. Toward 
midnight it veered to the south-west and brought the 
Florence clown to storm-sails. This morning it was 
more moderate, but was still strong. We kept off 
under three reefed sails. The day is clear and bright. 
A heavy sea is running. At noon our latitude was 
55° 46' north, longitude 53° 39' west. 

September 20. — Wind strong from the south. The 
vessel is under storm -sails. Raining. The weather 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 181 

is the worst that can be imagined. One cannot con- 
ceive anything equal to it. One storm follows another 
in quick succession. Mght after night we do not 
know what it is to undress to sleep. It seems as though 
all our efforts are required to keep the schooner above 
water. 

September 21. — "We were under storm-sails all night. 
Toward morning the wind veered to the west and staid 
in that quarter two or three hours. It was very light, 
however. At daybreak it hauled to the east, but con- 
tinued light. As there was a heavy sea running, it 
was impossible to make any sail. At 9 a. m. I put 
three reefed sails on the vessel. There were then a 
strong breeze from the south-east, a thick fog, and a 
heavy swell, from yesterday's and last night's gale. 
If this weather continues much longer we shall all be 
web-footed. .At 3 p. m. we again hove-to under close- 
reefed foresail, with the wind about south true and 
south-west by compass. The variation is 45° to the 
west. Latitude 55° north, longitude 51° west. 

September 22. — All last night the wind raged furi- 
ously. We had no sail on the schooner except close- 
reefed foresail, with the throat hauled down and the 
storm-staysail lowered, so as to expose as little canvas 
as possible to the fury of the blast. Toward morning 
the wind abated, and at 6 a. m. it had ceased entirelv. 



\ 



182 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 

We are now lying rolling in the heavy swell left by 
the gale. The weather is cloudy and heavy-looking. 

September 23. — We lay all day yesterday wallowing 
in the swell. At 3 p. m. a heavy, dense fog set in, and 
at 8 a breeze came from the north-east, bringing rain. 
The weather soon became squally, the wind coming 
from north-east and north. The night was intensely 
dark and stormy. At 11 p. m. the jibstay parted. 
As this supported our mast, quick work was necessary 
to secure it. All hands were called and all sail was 
taken off the vessel, and she was kept directly before 
the wind, to continue that course until such time as 
the mast could be secured by tackle. In doing this 
she reeled heavily and put three men under water, but 
fortunately the plunge did no other damage. By 1 
o'clock a. M. everything had been secured, and we re- 
sumed our course under the squaresail. This morning 
the wind was north, or a little west of north. I set a 
close-reefed foresail. Raining and blowing fresh. 

September 24. — Yesterday, at 11.30 a. m., the wind 
hauled to the north-east and rapidly increased in force. 
A very heavy sea was running. At 12 meridian we 
came under storm-sail's. 

September 25. — The gale has been most terrific* 
At times we thought the little schooner could not live 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 183 

through it. It moderated this evening and rain com- 
menced falling. At 11 p. M. we kept off under close- 
reefed foresail, storm-staysail, and bonnet off' jib. 

September 26. — Came to anchor at St. Johns, New- 
foundland, and here will rest awhile to recruit. "While 
here we will repair our jibstay and bend a new fore- 
sail. In such weather as we have had we need every- 
thing new and strong;. 



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i 



